U.S. patent number 3,802,229 [Application Number 05/242,439] was granted by the patent office on 1974-04-09 for seamless garment with partial and full course fashioning and method.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Pilot Research Corporation. Invention is credited to Oscar Fregeolle.
United States Patent |
3,802,229 |
Fregeolle |
April 9, 1974 |
SEAMLESS GARMENT WITH PARTIAL AND FULL COURSE FASHIONING AND
METHOD
Abstract
This seamless garment includes a panty portion formed of
fashioned gussets of partial courses and groups of complete courses
positioned between the fashioned gussets, and fashioned leg
extensions which are joined to a pair of legs integrally knit with
the panty portion and depending therefrom. The positioning of the
fashioned gussets and complete courses may be varied to change the
length and width of the panty portion and to thus shape and fashion
the body of the garment, as desired.
Inventors: |
Fregeolle; Oscar (Hickory,
NC) |
Assignee: |
Pilot Research Corporation
(Valdese, NC)
|
Family
ID: |
22914783 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/242,439 |
Filed: |
April 10, 1972 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
66/177 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D04B
1/243 (20130101); D04B 1/108 (20130101); A41B
11/14 (20130101); D10B 2403/033 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A41B
11/00 (20060101); A41B 11/14 (20060101); D04B
1/24 (20060101); D04B 1/22 (20060101); A41b
009/06 () |
Field of
Search: |
;66/175,176,177,172 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Feldbaum; Ronald
Attorney, Agent or Firm: Parrott, Bell, Seltzer, Park &
Gibson
Claims
That which is claimed is:
1. A seamless knit blank for forming a lower body garment including
a panty portion and a pair of legs integrally knit with said panty
portion, each of said legs comprising successive circularly knit
complete courses, said panty portion comprising a fashioned leg
extension at each side of said panty portion and extending upwardly
from each of said legs and being formed of reciprocatorily knit
fashioned partial courses, fashioned front and rear body gussets at
opposite sides of said panty portion and being formed of
reciprocatorily knit fashioned partial courses, said front and rear
body gussets including more than twice as many partial courses as
the number of partial courses in said fashioned leg extensions, a
first group of circularly knit complete courses on one side of said
panty portion and joining one of said leg extensions to said front
and rear body gussets at one side of said panty portion, a second
group of complete circularly knit courses on the other side of said
panty portion and joining the other of said leg extensions to said
front and rear body gussets, said first and second groups of
complete courses each including a greater number of full courses
than the number of reciprocatorily knit fashioned partial courses
in the adjacent fashioned leg extensions so that said fashioned leg
extensions are spaced downwardly a substantial distance from said
body gussets to provide additional fabric in the upper thigh areas
of the garment blank, and a third group of complete circularly knit
courses in the center of said panty portion and joining said front
and rear gussets at opposite sides of said panty portion.
2. A garment blank according to claim 1 wherein said front and rear
body gussets each comprise groups of narrowed and widened partial
courses with the endmost stitch loops being joined along front and
rear gore lines.
3. A garment blank according to claim 1 wherein said fashioned leg
extensions each comprise groups of narrowed and widened partial
courses with the endmost stitch loops being joined along front and
rear gore lines.
4. A seamless knit lower body garment including a panty portion, a
pair of legs integrally knit with said panty portion, and a waist
opening along the upper end of said panty portion, each of said
legs comprising successive circularly knit complete courses, said
panty portion comprising a fashioned leg extension at each side of
said panty portion and extending upwardly from each of said legs
and being formed of reciprocatorily knit fashioned partial courses,
fashioned front and rear body gussets at opposite sides of said
panty portion and being formed of reciprocatorily knit fashioned
partial courses, said front and rear body gussets including more
than twice as many partial courses as the number of partial courses
in said fashioned leg extensions, first and second groups of
circularly knit complete courses on opposite sides of said panty
portion and joining said respective leg extensions to said
respective front and rear body gussets at opposite sides of said
panty portion, said first and second groups of circularly knit
complete courses each including a greater number of full courses
than the number of reciprocatorily knit fashioned partial courses
in the adjacent fashioned leg extensions so that said fashioned leg
extensions are spaced downwardly a substantial distance from said
body gussets to provide additional fabric in the upper thigh areas
of the garment, and a central panel of courses positioned between
and joining said front and rear gussets at opposite sides of said
panty portion, the ends of the courses of said central panel
terminating at said waist opening in the front and rear of said
panty portion.
5. A garment according to claim 4 including a crotch area in the
panty portion and between said legs, and wherein the inner portions
of said first and second groups of complete courses are joined to
opposite sides of corresponding inner portions of the courses of
said central panel.
6. A garment according to claim 5 comprising a panty hose with said
legs being knit of fine denier yarn, and said panty portion being
knit of heavy denier yarn.
7. A panty hose garment according to claim 6 including an elastic
band attached to said waist opening along the upper end of said
panty portion.
8. A panty hose garment according to claim 6 wherein said front and
rear body gussets each comprise groups of narrowed and widened
partial courses with the endmost stitch loops being joined along
front and rear gore lines.
9. A panty hose garment according to claim 8 wherein said fashioned
leg extensions each comprise groups of narrowed and widened partial
courses with the endmost stitch loops being joined along front and
rear gore lines.
10. A method of forming a seamless lower body garment including a
panty portion and a pair of legs integrally knit with the panty
portion, said method comprising the steps of circularly knitting
successive complete courses to form the first leg, reciprocatorily
knitting a certain number of fashioned partial courses to form a
first leg extension, circularly knitting a greater number of
complete courses than the number of partial courses in the first
leg extension, reciprocatorily knitting more than twice as many
fashioned partial courses as the number of partial courses in the
first leg extension to form a first body gusset in one side of said
panty portion, circularly knitting a group of complete courses,
reciprocatorily knitting substantially the same number of fashioned
partial courses as the number of partial courses in the first body
gusset to form a second body gusset in the other side of said panty
portion, curcularly knitting a group of complete courses
corresponding in number to the number of complete courses knit
after the first leg extension, reciprocatorily knitting a group of
fashioned partial courses corresponding in number to the number of
partial courses knit in the first leg extension to form a second
leg extension, circularly knitting successive complete courses to
form the second leg, and slitting the upper end of the panty
portion to form a waist opening in the garment.
11. A method according to claim 10 including the knitting of groups
of narrowed and widened partial courses to form said first and
second body gussets.
12. A method according to claim 11 including the knitting of groups
of narrowed and widened partial courses to form said first and
second leg extensions.
13. A method according to claim 12 wherein single needle narrowing
and widening is employed in knitting said body gussets and said leg
extensions.
Description
This invention relates generally to seamless knit, two-legged lower
body garments, such as panties, panty girdles, bathing suit trunks,
tights, leotards, panty hose and the like and to the method of
making the same. More particularly, the present invention relates
to such garments which are provided with body shaping gussets or
pockets which are spaced apart by groups of complete courses.
Various types of fashioned seamless lower body garments have been
formed on circular knitting machines by knitting complete courses
to form a first leg portion, then knitting a plurality of fashioned
gussets of partial courses to form a fashioned panty portion, and
again knitting complete courses to form the other leg. This general
type of garment is illustrated in the Garrou et al. U.S. Pat. No.
2,962,884. The Garrou et al. U.S. Pat. No. 3,109,300 discloses a
seamless knit garment which has increased length in the body
portion by virtue of the fact that the fashioned gussets of the
body portion are joined together along what may be characterized as
Y-type gore lines. The Garrou et al. U.S. Pat. No. 3,109,301
discloses a seamless knit garment having increased width in the
body portion because complete courses are formed in the central
portion of the panty portion and space the legs further apart.
While these prior patents disclose garments suitable for fitting
wearers of different sizes, it is necessary to knit a different
type of garment to fit wearers of each size.
With the foregoing in mind, it is an object of the present
invention to provide a seamless garment with partial and full
course fashioning wherein groups of complete courses are formed
between fashioned body shaping gussets or pockets formed of partial
courses to provide both increased length and increased width in the
body portion so that one type of garment will fit a wide variety of
wearers of different sizes.
It is a further object of the present invention to provide a method
of knitting a seamless garment with partial and full course
fashioning which may be carried out on a circular knitting
machine.
In accordance with the present invention, the seamless knit lower
body garment includes a fashioned panty portion having a pair of
legs integrally knit therewith. The panty portion includes a
fashioned leg extension or pocket at each side of the panty portion
which extends upwardly from each of the legs and is formed of
partial courses. Fashioned front and rear body gussets or pockets
are provided at opposite sides of the panty portion and are formed
of partial courses. First and second groups of complete courses are
formed at opposite sides of the panty portion and join the
respective fashioned leg extensions to the front and rear fashioned
body gussets. A third group of complete courses is positioned in
the center of the panty portion and joins the front and rear
gussets at opposite sides of the panty portion. All three groups of
complete courses are joined in the lower center crotch area of the
panty portion to provide added fabric in this area. The fashioned
gussets provide added fabric in the corresponding areas of the
panty portion while the third group of complete courses adds width
and the first and second groups of complete courses add length in
the panty portion.
Other objects and advantages of the invention will appear as the
description proceeds, when taken in connection with the
accompanying drawings, in which
FIG. 1 is a front elevation of a panty hose type of seamless lower
body garment blank knit in accordance with the present invention
with the lower toe portions being closed, and illustrating the
arrangement of fashioned gussets and complete circular courses in
the body portion;
FIG. 2 is an enlarged rear elevational view of the upper portion of
the garment blank shown in FIG. 1;
FIG. 3 is a front view of the upper portion of the garment and
illustrating the same as it appears when worn;
FIG. 4 is a view similar to FIG. 3 but illustrating the rear
portion of the garment; and
FIG. 5 is a view similar to FIGS. 3 and 4 but illustrating one side
of the garment.
The garment blank illustrated in FIG. 1 is knit in a suitable shape
for forming a panty hose type garment and includes a pair of
seamless tubular legs 10, 11, which are formed of successive
complete courses. The courses of the legs extend substantially
horizontally or transversely of the legs 10, 11. The shade lines in
the drawings indicate the direction in which the courses extend in
various portions of the garment. As illustrated in FIG. 2, the
upper ends of the legs 10, 11 terminate along the respective
dash-dot lines 12, 13 and the inner portions of the legs 10, 11 are
spaced apart by a crotch area, broadly indicated at C.
The panty portion of the garment includes fashioned leg extensions,
gussets or pockets 14, 15 (FIG. 2) extending upwardly from the
respective legs 10, 11 and being formed of fashioned partial
courses. Fashioned front and rear body gussets or pockets 16 and 17
are provided at each side of the panty portion and are formed of
fashioned partial courses, in a manner to be presently
described.
A first group of complete courses 18 is provided at one side of the
panty portion and joins the first leg extension 14 to the first
front and rear body gussets 16. A second group of complete courses
19 is provided at the opposite side of the panty portion and joins
the second leg extension 15 to the second front and rear body
gussets 17. A third group of complete courses 20 is provided in the
center of the panty portion and joins the front and rear gussets
16, 17 at opposite sides of the pantry portion. As illustrated in
FIG. 2, the lower portions of each of the groups of complete
courses 18, 19 and 20 extend through the crotch area C and are
directly connected to each other, and to the inner portions of the
last full courses of the legs 10, 11.
The particular fashioning of the body portion of the garment will
be presently described in connection with the description of the
method of knitting the garment. As best shown in FIG. 2, the first
leg extension 14 comprises a gusset or pocket formed of a pair of
body shaping panels which are knit with fashioned narrowed and
widened partial courses with the endmost stitch loops of the
partial courses being joined along respective front and rear suture
or gore lines 22, 23. The other leg extension 15 also comprises a
gusset or pocket formed of fashioned panels of narrowed and widened
partial courses with the endmost stitch loops being joined along
respective front and rear suture or gore lines 24, 25.
The fashioned front and rear body gusset 16 is formed of body
shaping panels of narrowed and widened partial courses with the
endmost stitch loops being joined along respective front and rear
suture or gore lines 26, 27. The other fashioned front and rear
body gusset 17 is knit of body shaping panels of narrowed and
widened partial courses with the endmost stitch loops being joined
together along respective front and rear suture or gore lines 28,
29. However, it is to be understood that the fashioned leg
extensions 14, 15 and/or the fashioned front and rear body gussets
16, 17 may be formed of single body shaping panels formed of
widened or narrowed partial courses so that the corresponding
suture or gore lines are formed adjacent to the corrresponding
groups of complete courses 18, 19 or 20.
The panty portion of the garment is preferably knit of a heavier
denier yarn than the leg portion, as indicated by lines 30, 31. The
upper end of the panty portion of the garment is provided with an
elastic waistband, indicated at 35 in FIGS. 3-5, is attached to the
upper edge of the panty portion and provides a waist opening. The
panty hose garment is preferably formed of some type of stretchable
yarn so that it may be easily drawn on the body of the wearer, as
illustrated in FIGS. 3-5. When the panty hose is worn, as indicated
in FIGS. 3-5, the fashioned leg extensions or pockets provide added
fabric in the upper thigh area while the fashioned front and rear
body gussets or pockets provide added fabric in the hip areas, and
the complete courses between the fashioned pockets provide added
length and width in the panty portion, as well as added fabric in
the crotch area C.
When the panty hose is worn, the front gore lines 26, 28 and rear
gore lines 27, 29 define respective front and rear panels which may
be knit of a heavy elastic yarn to provide control panels. Also,
the entire panty portion, or selected areas, may be knit of a heavy
elastic yarn to provide body control and support in the panty
portion. The heavy elastic yarn may be inlaid or otherwise
incorporated in selected areas of the panty portion and/or legs to
provide support. The legs and panty portion, and/or selected areas
thereof, may be knit with any desired type of plain or patterned
stitch to provide open mesh or other patterns.
METHOD OF KNITTING
The knitting of the panty hose type garment illustrated in the
drawings will be described as it is carried out on a fine gauge
knitting machine of the type normally used in knitting ladies'
hosiery. This particular machine has a three and three-quarter inch
needle cylinder with 400 needles in the cylinder. Knitting of the
garment may begin at the lower end of either leg 10, 11 and will be
described beginning at the lower end of the leg 10. The leg 10 is
knit with all 400 needles in active position and full circular
courses are knit of 18 denier yarn having four filaments and which
supplied as stretchable yarn by the yarn producer. Near the upper
end of the leg 10, a heavy denier yarn is introduced, along the
line 30. This heavier panty yarn is two plied ends of 18 denier
four filament yarn of the same type as was used in knitting the
finer denier leg, and 36 courses are formed of this heavier yarn,
up to the dash-dot line 12.
The machine then switches into reciprocatory knitting and 52
needles in the crotch area are raised to an inactive level to pass
above the switch cams and remain in the inactive position while the
needle cylinder reciprocates. The narrowing picks are activated and
narrowed partial courses are knit with each swing of the needle
cylinder. The single leading needle is raised to inactive level by
the narrowing picks with each swing.
This narrowing operation continues until 36 needles have been
raised to inactive level, along each of the front and rear gore
lines 23, 24. The reciprocating motion continues and the widening
pick is moved to an active level so that two needles are lowered to
active level and a single needle is raised by the narrowing picks
so that the length of the widened partial courses increases by one
needle with each swing of the needle cylinder. As the inactive
needles are brought back into active position, the stitch loops
which were held thereon are joined to the new stitch loops to form
the gore lines 22 and 23 at the front and rear of the panty
portion.
When the number of needles knitting thas increased in this widening
operation until only 54 needles remain inactive, the machine again
switches to rotary knitting and the inactive needles are switched
to the lower active level and all needles knit to form the first
group of full or complete courses 18. The outer portion of the
first full course of the group 18 is connected to the last widened
partial course of the gusset 14 and the inner portion, in the
crotch area, is connected to the corresponding portion of the last
full course of the leg 10, along the inner portion of the dash-dot
line 12. Ninety-two full courses are formed in the group 18.
The machine then switches back to reciprocatory knitting and the
stitch loops formed on the 52 needles forming the crotch area are
raised to inactive level during the knitting of the first fashioned
body gusset 16. During the knitting of the first portion of the
gusset 16, the number of needles knitting is gradually reduced by
activating the narrowing picks so that one needle is raised to
inactive level with each swing of the needle cylinder, along the
front and rear gore lines 26, 27. This narrowing operation
continues until 129 needles have been raised at the front and rear
of the panty portion. The widening pick is then moved to an
operative position and the second half of the fashioned body gusset
is widened, one needle with each swing of the needle cylinder until
only 54 needles remain active in the crotch area. During this
widening operation, the needles brought back into active position
form stitch loops through the stitch loops which were held on the
needles raised during the narrowing operation and the gore or
suture lines 26, 27 at the front and rear of the panty portion are
formed.
Upon completion of the knitting of the fashioned gusset 16, the
machine again switches to rotary knitting and the inactive needles
in the crotch area C are lowered to an active level and all needles
knit the yarns to form the group of full courses 20. Eighty full
courses are knit in the group 20 with the lower portion of the
first full course being joined to the lower portion of the last
full course of the group 18, in the crotch area C.
The machine again switches to reciprocatory knitting and the 52
needles which knit the crotch area are raised to inactive level and
a narrowing operation takes place in the formation of the first
portion of the second body gusset 17. This narrowing operation
continues raising the needles to the inactive position and holding
the endmost stitch loops thereon along the respective front and
rear gore lines 28, 29 until 129 needles have been raised to
inactive level at the front and rear of the panty portion. As
reciprocation of the needle cylinder continues, the widening pick
is brought into active position and the second or widened half of
the body gusset 17 is knit to form the front and rear suture or
gore lines 28, 29.
Upon completion of the fashioned body gusset 17, the inactive
needles in the crotch area are lowered to active level and the
machine switches to rotary knitting to form the group of complete
courses 19 on all of the needles. This group of courses 19 includes
92 courses with the inner portion of the first full course being
connected to the stitch loops at the lower portion of the last full
course of the group 20 and in the crotch area C.
The machine again switches to reciprocatory knitting to knit the
fashioned leg extension or gusset 15 and the 52 needles which knit
the crotch area C are raised to an inactive level and the narrowing
picks operate to raise one needle with each swing of the needle
cylinder and these raised needles hold the stitch loops along the
front and rear gore lines 24, 25. This narrowing operation
continues until 36 needles have been raised to inactive level,
along each of the front and rear gore lines 24, 25.
The widening pick is moved to an active level and the second half
of the fashioned leg extension 15 is completed by a single needle
widening operation with the added needles drawing stitch loops
through the stitch loops held on the needles idled in the narrowed
portion to form the front and rear gore lines 24, 25. When widening
has continued until only 54 needles remain inactive, the machine
switches to rotary knitting and the raised inactive needles which
knit the crotch are switched to a lower active level and full
courses are knit, beginning along the dash-dot line 13 to begin the
knitting of the second leg 11. The inner portion of the first full
course of the leg 11 is joined to the corresponding stitch loops of
the inner portion of the last full course of the group 19 and in
the crotch area C. At the line 31, the heavy denier yarn is removed
and the fine denier yarn is introduced to knit the leg portion 11.
Upon completion of the proper length of fabric to form the leg 11,
the panty hose blank is removed from the knitting machine.
The lower ends of the legs 10, 11 may be closed by any suitable
means to form toe pockets in a lower ends of the legs of the panty
hose. The upper closed end of the panty portion is slit, in a
walewise direction from approximately one side to the other and the
elastic waistband 35 is attached thereto, as by a sewing operation
to complete the formation of the panty hose. If desired, the lower
ends of the legs 10, 11 may be provided with "twisted toe closures"
and the slit across the upper part of the body portion of the panty
hose may be automatically formed on the knitting machine as the
body portion is being knit so that the formation of the panty hose
is completed by the knitting machine, except for the attachment of
the elastic waistband 35. Also, a waist opening with a selvaged
edge may be automatically knit in the upper portion of the panty
hose and an elastic waistband formed around the opening, in the
manner described in my copending application Ser. No. 186,344,
filed Oct. 4, 1971.
As best shown in FIG. 2, the panty portion comprises the fashioned
leg extensions 14, 15 at each side of the panty portion, fashioned
front and rear body gussets 16, 17 at opposite sides of the panty
portion, first and second groups of complete courses 18, 19 on
opposite sides of the panty portion, and a third group of complete
courses 20 in the center of the panty portion. The group of
complete courses 20 in the center of the panty portion are no
longer complete courses when the waist opening is formed and
provide a central panel with the ends of the courses terminating at
the waist opening in the front and rear of the panty portion. This
group of center courses forming the central panel adds width to the
panty portion while the groups of complete courses 18, 19 at
opposite sides add length to the panty portion. The fashioned leg
extensions 14, 15 provide additional fabric which is taken up by
the buttocks, upper thighs and the crotch of the wearer. The
fashioned front and rear body gussets 16, 17 also provide
additional fabric which is taken up by the hips of the wearer. It
will be noted that portions of the groups 18, 19, and 20 of full
courses each extend into and through the crotch area C and increase
the amount of fabric in this area to provide comfort and fit for
the wearer.
In the drawings and specification, there has been set forth a
preferred embodiment of the invention, and although specific terms
are employed, they are used in a generic and descriptive sense only
and not for purposes of limitaton.
* * * * *