U.S. patent number 3,772,899 [Application Number 05/118,016] was granted by the patent office on 1973-11-20 for seamless brassieres and brassiere blanks.
Invention is credited to Giuseppe Novi.
United States Patent |
3,772,899 |
Novi |
November 20, 1973 |
SEAMLESS BRASSIERES AND BRASSIERE BLANKS
Abstract
There is described an article adapted for ready deformation into
a brassiere defining blank generally including a longitudinally
knit seamless tubular artefact having successively knit portions of
varying diameters in adjacent portions. The tubular artefact is
preferably knit longitudinally on a circular knit hosiery machine.
Deformation may be effected by use of a wire form which is inserted
longitudinally within the tubular knit article thus flattening the
article into two superimposed layers with a portion of the
periphery of the wire defining the upper and lower edges desired
for the cups of the blank. Three dimensional forms inserted within
the periphery shapes the bust areas to three dimensions.
Inventors: |
Novi; Giuseppe (Pontedera,
IT) |
Family
ID: |
26329165 |
Appl.
No.: |
05/118,016 |
Filed: |
February 23, 1971 |
Foreign Application Priority Data
|
|
|
|
|
Mar 4, 1970 [IT] |
|
|
45208 A/70 |
Sep 7, 1970 [IT] |
|
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45216 A/70 |
|
Current U.S.
Class: |
66/176;
450/39 |
Current CPC
Class: |
D04B
1/246 (20130101); A41C 5/00 (20130101); D04B
1/102 (20130101); A41C 3/0014 (20130101); D10B
2403/0331 (20130101) |
Current International
Class: |
A41C
3/00 (20060101); A41C 5/00 (20060101); A41b
009/06 () |
Field of
Search: |
;66/173,176,170,171,54
;128/464,465,517,463 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
Primary Examiner: Feldbaum; Ronald
Claims
Having thus described certain forms of the invention in some
detail, what is claimed is:
1. An article adapted for deformation into a two superimposed layer
brassiere defining blank, comprising;
a longitudinally knit, seamless tubular sleeve, successively knit
portions of said sleeve having a varying diameter than that of its
next adjacent portion;
at least two non-adjacent portions of equal diameter to each other
defining the frontal portion of said blank with said two
non-adjacent portions defining locations adapted for deformation
into breast receiving elements;
said breast receiving elements being of a larger than the balance
of said frontal portion;
said sleeve, when collapsed, providing at each of said breast
defining locations a two-ply arrangement with each ply the
substantial equivalent of the other.
2. The article as claimed in claim 1 wherein said sleeve includes
the same number of wales in each of said successively knit
portions.
3. The article as claimed in claim 1 wherein said successive
portions include at least a first portion having a first diameter,
a second portion having a second diameter smaller than said first
diameter and a third portion having a third diameter equal to said
first diameter wherein said first and third portions define said
locations on said article adaptable for deformation into breast
receiving elements.
4. The article as claimed in claim 3 further including a fourth
portion preceding said first portion, and a fifth portion
succeeding said third portion wherein said fourth and fifth
portions have a diameter smaller than said first and third
portions.
5. The article as claimed in claim 1 wherein said varying diameters
are a function of the size of the stitches in each of said
successively knit portions.
6. A brassiere comprising a knit frontal portion having two breast
receiving portions spaced apart by a bridge portion, body
encircling means extending between the outer edges of said frontal
portion, wherein said breast receiving portion and said bridge are
a collapsed deformed tubular sleeve including the same number of
wales throughout their extent, with each of said frontal portion a
two-ply arrangement with each ply of each breast receiving portion
the substantial equivalent of the other ply of such portion, each
of said breast receiving portions of a larger diameter than the
balance of said frontal portion.
7. A brassiere comprising a knit frontal poetion having two
non-adjacent breast receiving portions spaced apart by a bridge
portion, body encircling means extending between the outer edges of
said frontal portion, wherein said frontal portion comprises a
longitudinally knit seamless two-ply extent having successively
knit portions of varying diameters in adjacent portions, at least
two non-adjacent portions of substantially equal diameter, said
last referred to two non-adjacent portions defining said two breast
receiving portions said two breast receiving portions of a larger
diameter than the balance of said frontal portion.
8. The brassiere as claimed in claim 7 further including insert
means, said insert means emplaced between said two plies.
9. A brassiere comprising a frontal portion having two breast
receiving cup portions spaced apart by a bridge portion, and body
encircling means extending between the outer edges of said frontal
portion, wherein said frontal portion comprises a longitudinally
extending collapsed tubular seamless member forming a two-ply
extent between at least said body encircling means, said breast
receiving cups being of a deformed wider diameter than said bridge
portion.
Description
CROSS REFERENCES
The present application is based upon Italian Pat. application No.
45208A/70 entitled KNITTED BRA PRODUCED BY MOLDING and dated Mar.
4, 1970 and Italian Pat. application No. 45,216A/70 entitled
"Improvement in Knitted Bra Produced By Molding" dated Sept. 7,
1970 and applicant claims priority under 35 U.S.C. 119 based upon
the above application.
The present invention relates to seamless brassiere blanks and to
methods and apparatus for constructing the same.
With the greater emphasis on what has been termed a more "natural"
look in women's fashions, various attempts have been made to
provide a brassiere having a smooth silhouette. In some instances
products have been developed whereby existing brassiere
constructions have been modified by substituting a softer material,
such as tricot for the previously employed more firm or rigid
fabric constituents in the cups of the brassiere. While this type
of modification does serve to "soften" the look of the garment to
some extent both on and off the body, it does not fully solve the
problem since each cup is still constructed in the manner
heretofore employed for more rigid fabrics. That is, two or three
fabric sections are sewn together. The seaming lines usually
include a somewhat horizontal medial seam line extending through
the sewn cup. The sewn together constituents provides a
semispherical cup component which is in turn sewed into the basic
body encircling brassiere frame. Even with the material
substitution hereinbefore described, a prominant seam is still
included along each cup. Aside from detracting from the overall
aesthetics of the garment, oftentimes the outline of the seam line
is either visible through outer tight fitting garments and/or
provides discomfort to the wearer by direct contact of the seam
edge with the breast.
In an attempt to provide a seamless cup, work has progressed in the
field of molded cups whereby a heat setting sheet of material is
formed by means of dies into a breast cup shape, with the resultant
molded cups sewed into a brassiere frame. While this procedure
eliminated the medial seam line in the cups, it still does not
fully solve the entire problem. Seaming is still required about the
outer periphery of the cup thus again presenting the problem of
undesired aesthetic appeal and possible discomfort due to contact
with the wearer's flesh. Additionally, this type of molding
operation not only sets the cup material into a given
configuration, it further rigidizes certain undesired regions of
the cup, and does not retain its molded shape after extensive
periods of wear.
In lieu of molded cups, some attempts have been made to employ
stretch material in the cups with the cups shaped by darts. While
this overcomes certain problems of molded cups, the darts present
problems equivilent to those encountered in seamed garments and of
greater significance, a garment constructed by use of stretchable
cup material seriously detracts from the supportive function of the
brassiere.
To overcome the foregoing problems, many recent attempts have been
made in the field of knitting a brassiere blank as an integral
unit. In more recent years flat bed full fashioning equipment has
been adapted for brassiere blank knitting with the cups of the
brassiere being fashioned by progressive widening and narrowing
along either side of a medial row of plain knit wales extending
horizontally through the cups.
While full fashion knitting of brassiere blanks has gone a lone way
in solving the problem of providing a seamless brassiere blank, it
is still not the complete answer. While there is no seam in the
cups, the medial fashioning lines do present an area of visual
discontinuity with respect to the upper and lower portions of the
cups, thus resulting in the visual equivilent of a seam even though
no seam in fact is present. Aesthetic problems aside, flat bed full
fashioning equipment is by its nature a slower method of knitting
when compared with circular knit hosiery equipment.
While some attempts have been made to employ circular knitting
equipment for breast receiving articles, such as brassieres, it
would appear that such attempts have been primarily directed to
knitting the blank in a manner akin to the flat bed knitting
techniques. For example, attempts have been made to knit pockets or
cups of the blank by widening and narrowing along selected areas
employing various camming arrangements to provide for a
reciprocating program of the needle cylinder akin to the knitting
program generally employed in knitting the heel portion in hosiery.
There are thus required rather complex programs whereby a
substantial number of the needles remain inactive during portions
of the knitting. Further, the blanks are knit circumferentially
from bottom to top, as distinguished from lengthwise, thus placing
a limitation on the size of the blank which can be knit on a given
diameter cylinder.
According to the present invention, the aforedescribed problems are
overcomed.
The invention provides for the use of circular knit hosiery
equipment to produce a longitudinally knit tubular article
adaptable for selective deformation into a two-ply brassiere blank.
Through the implementation in at least a portion of the tubular
knit article of deformable and heat stabilizing yarns, a seamless,
subtle yet supportive brassiere blank can be constructed by
subjecting the longitudinally knit article to deformation elements,
such as molding dies to stabilize the yarns to a finished blank
shape.
In its simpliest form, the knitted article provides for the
continuous knitting of a series two sizes of stitches. Smaller size
stitches are knit to form that portion of the tubular article which
in the finished blank will correspond to the circumferential band
sections or dorsal portions of the blank. A series of larger
stitches are knit and correspond to the two cups of the blank.
Intermediate the series of larger stitches is a series of smaller
stitches which may be equal in size to those stitches which will
correspond to the dorsal portion stitches of the tubular article.
These latter referred to smaller stitches form the area which will,
in the finished blank be the bridge between the cup portions.
As knit, the tubular article defines an elongated artefact which if
slit longitudinally would provide two identical lengths suitable
for shaping into a brassiere blank. However, as hereinafter
described, by retaining the initially knit integrity of the tubular
article, a two-ply integrally knit and simultaneously shaped
brassiere blank can be readily and economically constructed.
The use of the integral two-ply characteristics of the knit article
provides many desirable effects. As hereinafter described, the
tubular article allows for ease of stabilization; additional
supportive characteristics and additionally provides a pocket
between the plies allowing for the ready insertion therein of
supplementary materials, such as padding, additional supporting
elements, and/or fabric panels to control the opacity of the
brassiere blank.
Aside from the other benefits effected, the longitudinal tubular
knitting of the brassiere blank and the implementation in the
finished brassiere of the tube as an integral two-ply frontal
portion allows for the more ready construction of a diaphanous
garment which is not only supportive but which may be conveniently
and relatively economically produced.
As distinguished from the longitudinal selvege which extends along
brassiere blank knit either on flat bed hosiery equipment or other
knit single layer blanks, the tubular configuration of the present
invention when incorporated in a garment does not have a
longitudinal free edge. Thus, problems of raveling, curling or
running are avoided and the blank need not require separate
finishing operations along its longitudinal edges, such as the
addition of bordering tapes or otherwise framing the outer
longitudinal edges of the blanks.
As knit, the tubular article may be finished into a brassiere in a
number of ways. As knit, the tubular article defines in general
symmetry the basic brassiere constituents. By use of forms or the
like the tubular article may be oriented such that the yarns are
disposed to a desired finished shape. In view of the aforestated
deformation and stabilization characteristics of at least a portion
of the yarns, the yarns may be then set to the desired brassiere
shape. It should be noted that while the yarns are thus stabilized,
such as by heat, they need not be rigidized. If desired, the yarns
may be stabilized such that they have not reached their full extent
of elongation, thus allowing the yarns to retain their subtleness
and stretch characteristics. In other words, the yarns while
stabilized need not be rigidized.
By selective use of stabilizable yarns and selectively rigidizing
some areas and not others, support and control in desired areas of
the blank can be imparted to a finished brassiere.
Stabilization may be effected by use of a wire form which is
inserted longitudinally within the tubular knit article. The wire
form flattens the tubular article into two superimposed layers of
like configuration. The periphery of the wire form outlines the
upper and lower base edges of the breast cups desired in the
finished blank. The tubular article with such wire emplaced is then
shaped by bust forms. As shaped the yarns are then stabilized, such
as by subjecting the deformed tubular article to an environment
adaptable for stabilization of the constituent yarns, for example,
by hydrosetting the tubular article in an autoclave.
Since the wire form defines the longitudinal outline of the knitted
article, the bust forms may be emplaced between the peripheral
edges of the wire form. The bust forms thus simultaneously shape
the superimposed layers of the knitted article into a two-ply
brassiere blank.
After stabilization of the yarns the bust forms and wire form are
removed and the resultant stabilized brassiere blank can be
finished in any desired manner.
By implementation of a longitudinally knit tubular blank, knit by a
successive program of larger and smaller stitches, a constant
number of needles may be employed throughout the entire knitting
operation without the need for reciprocating actuation of the
cylinder with its correlative use of only a selective percentage of
needles for any period during the knitting cycle.
There is thus hereinafter more particularly described an article
adapted for ready deformation into a two superimposed layer
brassiere defining blank generally comprising a longitudinally knit
seamless tubular artefact having successively knit portions of
varying diameters in adjacent portions. Therefore, there is the
same number of wales in each portion with the varying diameters
being a function of the size of the stitches in each of the
successively knit portions.
While the tubular knit article is described with respect to five
zones or portions; to wit; a first dorsal portion, first cup
portion, bridge, second cup portion and second dorsal portion, it
should be understood that the dorsal portions may be omitted, with
the knitting being only of the frontal area of a brassiere. If
desired, dorsal portions may be later sewn to the frontal portion
during finishing of the blank.
The preferred method of construction generally includes the steps
of longitudinally knitting the seamless tubular artefact with the
yarns adapted to be stabilized subsequent to knitting, deforming
the two non-adjacent larger diameter portions of the artefact to a
relatively semispherical shape, and stabilizing the yarns to retain
the larger diameter non-adjacent portions as deformed.
Deformation is preferably accomplished by flattening the tubular
artefact to position like knit portions into relative
superimposition to form a seamless two layer artefact and
three-dimensionally deforming the non-adjacent larger diameter
portions into generally semispherical shape as superimposed.
The preferred apparatus for obtaining such superimposition includes
a forming frame with a portion of the forming frame peripherally
defining the upper and lower edges desired in the finished
brassiere. This permits the emplacement of the tubular artefact
with the forming frame emplaced therein over the three-dimensional
bust forming units for deformation of the non-adjacent larger
diameter portions of the artefact to three-dimensions as
superimposed.
Although such novel feature or features believed to be
characteristic of the invention are pointed out in the claim, the
invention and the manner in which it may be carried out may be
further understood by reference of the following description and
the accompanying drawings.
FIG. 1 is a cross sectional, simplified depiction of the cylinder
and associated mechanisms of a circular knit hosiery machine.
FIG. 2 is a schematic view of a tubular knit article of the present
invention laid flat.
FIG. 2A is a top view of the tubular knit article of FIG. 2.
FIG. 3 is a plan view of a forming wire of the present
invention.
FIG. 4 is an elevational view of another wire form of the present
invention superimposed over a phantom depicting of a human female
form.
FIG. 5 is a top plan view of a bust forming assembly of the present
invention.
FIG. 6 is a sectional view taken along line 6--6 of FIG. 5.
FIG. 7 is a side elevational view illustrating a knitted article of
the present invention having a forming wire emplaced therein as it
is initially emplaced over the bust forms.
FIG. 8 is a plan view of an alternate forming wire of the present
invention.
FIG. 9 is a side elevation of a bust supporting insert adaptable
for use with a brassiere blank of the present invention.
FIG. 10 is a plan view illustrating the insert of FIG. 9 emplaced
within a brassiere blank of the present invention.
FIG. 11 is a perspective view of a brassiere constructed in
accordance with the teachings of the present invention as emplaced
on the torso.
FIG. 12 is a schematic representation of the stitch diagram showing
an alternate knitting sequence in accordance with the teachings of
the present invention, with the diagram representing the tubular
knit article as if cut longitudinally and laid flat.
FIG. 13 is a plan view of a form of a brassiere constructed in
accordance with the present invention as laid flat.
Referring now to the figures in greater detail, where like
reference numbers denote like parts in the various figures.
As hereinbefore described, the present invention employs a circular
knit hosiery machine. Various circular knit hosiery machines are
commercially available, such as a Scott & Williams 400 needle 3
3/4 inch diameter circular knit hosiery machine. It is to be
appreciated that such machine is merely exemplary of one machine
readily suitable for use in knitting a seamless tubular artefact of
the present invention and other machines, such as 200 needle
circular knit hosiery machines or the like may also be
employed.
FIG. 1 is a general depicting of a section of the cylinder 10
including a cylinder gear 11 having a bevelled edge 12 which mates
with the driving mechanism (not shown) so as to rotate the cylinder
10 in the plane of the gear 11. A plurality of needles 13 seat
within needle slots vertically disposed about the cylinder 10. At
the base of the needles are butts 14 which ride along the periphery
of cams 15. As the cylinder 10 rotates, the cams 15 selectively,
vertically actuate a desired needle or needles 13 to a
predetermined, sequential program which in combination with the
sinker mechanism 16 of the machine forms a stitch. Where one yarn
feed is employed, a single complete circumferential revolution of
the cylinder, results in a course. Oftentimes two or more yarn
feeds are employed so that two or more courses can be
simultaneously knitted as the cylinder rovolves. Thus, the circular
knitting machine is in the nature of a weft knitting machine with
the wales of the knit article extending longitudinally of the
cylinder such as indicated by arrow A--A of FIG. 1 with the courses
running transversally, circumferentially of the cylinder such as
indicated by arrow B--B of FIG. 1.
The size of the knitted stitch can be varied in a number of ways.
Oftentimes the circular knitting machine is provided with a control
drum which regulates the stitch control cams, thus allowing a
selective programming of stitch size for any knitting sequence. A
like result can be obtained by controlling the tension of the yarn
as it is fed to the needles with the yarn package feeding off yarn
under selective various tensions.
Implementing whatever stitch size controlling device desired, the
present invention provides for the knitting of a tubular article
having preselected areas of varying stitch size. In FIGS. 2, 2A
there is schematically illustrated a seamless tubular article 17
knit on the circular knit hosiery machine. It will be noted that
there are five definitive areas or portions of the tubular article
17. All portions are knit with the same number of needles, that is
on a 400 needle machine, there is a constant number of wales (i.e.,
400) throughout all portions of the seamless tubular knit article
17. The variation in the diameter of the portions is dictated by
the size of the stitches.
Portion A represents a plurality of courses knit where the stitch
size is relatively small. This portion A represents a first dorsal
or side portion of the knitted blank. Therefore the number of
courses required in portion A is determined by the girth of the
wearer. Since it is oftentimes desirable, in finishing a garment to
provide separate dorsal panels which are sewn on to the basic front
of the brassiere garment, only a small number of courses may be
knit for the portion A.
Portion B represents that area of the tubular knit article 17 which
will act as a first breast cup. The stitches in portion B are
larger than those in portion A with the stitch size controlled as
heretofore described. The number of courses knit will of course
vary based upon the desired cup size and yarn denier.
Portion C of FIG. 2 represents the area which, in a finished
garment will be the bridge between the cups of the brassiere.
Smaller stitches, comparable to those knit for portion A are knit
in this area. The number of courses for portion C can be
selectively chosen based upon the size of the brassiere, the denier
of the yarns and the dictates of fashion.
Portion D represents the second cup area and is knit in the same
manner as hereinbefore described with respect to portion B.
Similarly, portion E represents the second dorsal portion on the
opposite side of the knit article 17 and its stitch size is the
same as in portion A.
It will be noted that only two stitch sizes are necessary with it
being possible for portions A, C and E to be knit having stitches
of equal size and portions B and D being knit of stitches having
equal size. While it is possible to graduate the difference in
stitch size, for example between portions A & B, the same is
not required. While the representation of the knit article 17
schematically illustrated in FIG. 2 indicates rather severe angles
at the point where the size of the stitches is varied, in actually
knitting the tubular article 17 it will be found that the area
where the stitch size is varied does not in fact, provide the
severe angular disparity depicted in FIG. 2 but rather there is a
degree of puckering (shown in phantom in FIG. 2) due to the abrupt
change in yarn density per unit area.
While various yarns may be employed in knitting depending upon the
texture and denier desired in the finished garment the yarns are
stabilizable, preferably heat setting, that is the yarns are
deformable yet subject to stabilization by subjecting the yarns to
heat. Various yarns of this nature are readily available, for
example, thermoplastic yarns such as nylon, polyester or the like.
Thus, the seamless tubular knitted article 17 of FIGS. 2, 2A is
deformable and may be further shaped, separate and apart from the
initial knitting to provide semispherical contouring to the cup
portions.
While various methods may be suitably employed, the following
described method and apparatus has been found highly suitable for
the finishing of the greige tubular article 17.
After knitting, the seamless tubular knit article 17 is scoured and
dyed. The scouring performs two functions. It first purges the
knitted blank of any impurities which may have been carried on the
yarn. Additionally, the washing, generally relaxes any tension
which may have been induced through knitting.
After scouring and dyeing a forming wire 18 such as shown in FIG. 3
is emplaced within the hollow chamber formed by the tubular
knitting. The forming wire 18 generally defines the peripherial
two-dimensional shape desired in the finished garment. This can be
seen most clearly in FIG. 4 where an alternate forming wire 19 is
illustrated superimposed over the upper portions of the female
torso.
In FIG. 3 the forming wire 18 is constructed of a length of wire
formed or bent so as to define within the area enclosed by the wire
the pectoral region of the torso and end lengths defining the
dorsal portions. When emplaced within the tubular knit article 17,
the tubular knit article 17 is distended so as to lie relatively
flat. To aid in the emplacement, the ends of the forming wire 18
may be provided with a locking hinge 20, generally including a
pivot 21 and a locking pin 22. The locking pin includes along its
vertical side a mating groove 23 which fits over one end of the
forming wire 18. With the pivot 21 affixed to one end of the
forming wire 18 and the mating groove 23 engaging the other end of
the forming wire 18, the forming wire 18 may be locked into a
predetermined shape with the distal ends 36, 37 of the forming wire
18 in a given relationship, shown in FIG. 3 as a parallel spaced
apart relationship. When the mating groove 23 is disengaged, the
distal ends 36, 37 of the forming wire 18 may be brought together
thus reducing the longitudinal height of the forming wire 18 and
allowing for its more ready insertion inside the tubular seamless
knit article 17.
The forming wire 19 of FIG. 4 includes the same general features of
the forming wire 18 of FIG. 3, however it should be noted that the
forming wire 19 has been shaped not only to peripherally define the
general pectoral area, but additionally provides peaked or somewhat
triangular shaping areas 24. The triangular shaping area 24 serve
as anchoring areas or platforms for the ready affixation of
brassiere straps or the like to the finished blank in the formation
of the brassiere.
Once a forming wires 18 has been emplaced within the chamber formed
by the tubular seamless knit article 17 those portions of the blank
B, D which define the bust receiving elements are subject to
deformation by three-dimensional forms 25. The forms 25 are
preferably part of a integral unit having a base 26 with
selectively shaped and spaced apart bust defining forms 25. The
lower periphery of the forms 25 define an area slightly smaller
than the area formed by the inside periphery of the forming wire 18
in the cup region.
Thus as shown in FIG. 7 the forms 25 may be emplaced within the
wire form so that the base of the forms 25 will enter within the
forming wire 18. As clearly shown in FIG. 7 the tubular seamless
article 17 is deformed in a manner so as to provide a two-ply
blank.
As deformed by the three-dimensional forms 25, and with the forming
wire 18 therein, the tubular knit article 17 is subjected to an
environment which will stabilize the yarns as oriented. It has been
found that hydrosetting in an autoclave under selective pressures
and temperatures stabilizes the yarns. For example, if the yarns
are four ends of 20 denier nylon (i.e., a total of 80 denier)
hydrosetting for two minutes at 115 degrees centigrade at two
atmospheres stabilizes the yarns.
Once stabilized, the three-dimensional forms are removed as is the
forming wire and the resultant brassiere blank is ready for
finishing as a brassiere. For example, closure means such as hook
and eye arrangements can be attached to the dorsal end portions and
straps can be affixed between the upper portion of the cups and the
rear closure.
Since the human body is tapered much like an inverted cone in the
upper torso area, it is desirable that the blank be pitched, that
is the dorsal portions should extend angularly from the outer cup
edges so that the brassiere when laid flat is somewhat arc shaped.
As illustrated in FIG. 13 this arc shaping or pitching can be
effected after the knitting, deformation and stabilization of the
tubular knit article 17 such as by substituting sewn side panels 38
along the outer cup edges in lieu of the integrally knit dorsal
portions and finishing the brassiere such as by the addition of
straps 39, rear hooks 40 and eyes 41 closure means and an underbust
band 42. It is possible however, to pre-orient the tubular knit
article 17 prior to stabilization to effect such arc shaping. Thus,
as shown in FIG. 8, the forming wire 27 may be preshaped so as to
have angularly disposed lateral side portions 28 pitched to the
angle desired for the finished blank. It should be noted that in
the lower portion of the forming wire 27 the arcuate shaping of the
forming wire has been eliminated thus modifying the cup shape.
As hereinbefore described, the tubular knit article 17 as deformed
and stabilized provides a two-ply brassiere blank. If desired, the
blank may then be longitudinally halved along the lines defined by
the forming wire 18. Thus, two blanks may be made of the single
seamless tubular knit article. However, it is preferred that the
two-ply resultant blank be employed in a single garment.
In addition to the additional supportive features of a two-ply
construction, the two-plies in the finished garment provides an
integral chamber which can be employed as a receptacle for
supportive or decorative variations. For example, FIGS. 9 and 10
illustrate a push-pad 29 (FIG. 9) which, when emplaced within the
two-ply brassiere blank 30 adds supportive and shaping means to the
garment, with the padding 29 or other desired accessory retained
within the two-ply nature of the blank.
In FIG. 11 the two-ply brassiere blank 30 is shown as finished into
a brassiere. The shoulder straps 31 have been affixed to the
garment and the dorsal panels 32 encircle the torso having closure
means (not shown). Of course, any desired ornamentation may be
applied either after the knitting and shaping of the brassiere
blank, or through the implementation of equipment generally
available with or integral to circular knit hosiery machines,
specific stitch patterns having desirable visual effects can be
integrally knit into the tubular knit article 17.
While the primary shaping of the brassiere blank is effected
through the combined use of the basic knitting program hereinbefore
described with the forming techniques illustrated, various knitting
programs may be employed to add supportive features to the finished
garment especially in the areas which will define the cups. FIG. 12
illustrates a knitting sequence which not only adds supportive
characteristics, but further provides an inherent prediliction of
the tubular knit article to properly shape itself with the aid of
the forming wire and the bust forms into breast cups.
The knitting diagram illustrated, represents the tubular knit
article as if cut open and laid flat. Thus, the width of the
diagram is equivilent to the total number of needles of the
machine. The areas denoted as F, G, H, I and J represent
respectively, a portion of the back panel or dorsal panel; the cup
portion; the bridge between the cups; the second cup; and the
opposite dorsal panel.
Since FIG. 12 is a stitch diagram, the width of areas F, H and J
are shown equal to that of G and I. In stitch form this is true
since all areas in the exemplary diagram each contain the same
number of wales. However, as heretofore described, the stitch sizes
in areas F, H and J are smaller than that in G and I. It will be
noted that there is generally defined in each area G and I a
diamond shape arrangement 33 which define four somewhat triangular
areas 34. The knitting diagram proscribes the use of two different
types of yarn. The basic yarn used throughout the tubular knitted
article have been pre-stabilized to a given degree. However, in the
triangular area 34 additional yarns are added. This may be readily
accomplished by plating to the primary base yarn another
stabilizable yarn distinguished as distniguished from the base yarn
has not been pre-stabilized to the same degree as the base
yarn.
It will therefore be noted, that there is additional yarn in the
areas 34 which, in the finished garment will represent the major
portion of the undercup area. Further, after knitting, as
aforedescribed, the tubular knit article 17 is scoured. The
presence of heat during scouring will shrink the non or lesser
stabilized yarns in the triangular areas 34 to a greater degree
than the shrinkage which will occur in the base yarn. For ease in
understanding, points 35 have been indicated in the knitting
diagram. These are not knitting indicia but rather, have been
indicated, for purposes of pointing out the general locations of
the apex or nipple areas in each ply in the cup areas.
It should be noted that the shape of the plated yarn areas 34 is
such, that aside from reinforcement, the contouring imparted during
shrinkage provides not only a rounding in the undercup area but an
anatomical conformance along the side area of the cup.
It should also be noted that the diamond shape does not extend
completely circumferentially about the tubular article. Rather, a
border is left which, in the finished garment provides a ready
location for an underbust band or the like such as shown as 42 in
FIG. 13.
It is to be appreciated that the above terms and expressions are
employed as terms of description recognizing that various
modifications are possible.
* * * * *