U.S. patent number 3,571,814 [Application Number 04/819,131] was granted by the patent office on 1971-03-23 for waistband construction.
This patent grant is currently assigned to Quick Service Textiles, Inc.. Invention is credited to Samuel E. Miller.
United States Patent |
3,571,814 |
Miller |
March 23, 1971 |
WAISTBAND CONSTRUCTION
Abstract
A waistband for wearing apparel, e.g. trousers, which includes a
woven strip to preclude rolling over of the outer edge portion of
the waistband. In order to perform its function the strip has a
degree of inherent rigidity but is flexible in the sense that its
presence does not discommode the wearer. These characteristics are
obtained by using a comparatively stiff thread in the weft, usually
a monofilament of nylon or the equivalent. Since the strip is
usually slit from wider goods the edges are rough or erose.
Furthermore, since the weft threads are short and comparatively
rigid the warp threads are inadequate to anchor them, so that they
are free to slide and thereby present this rough or erose edge
configuration which can puncture and/or abrade the adjacent shell
fabric. The disclosure relates to an edge construction for the
strip to avoid this undesirable behavior.
Inventors: |
Miller; Samuel E. (Wilmette,
IL) |
Assignee: |
Quick Service Textiles, Inc.
(Chicago, IL)
|
Family
ID: |
25227297 |
Appl.
No.: |
04/819,131 |
Filed: |
April 25, 1969 |
Current U.S.
Class: |
2/236;
428/193 |
Current CPC
Class: |
A41F
9/00 (20130101); Y10T 428/24785 (20150115) |
Current International
Class: |
A41F
9/00 (20060101); A41d 001/06 () |
Field of
Search: |
;2/236,220,221,237,76,255,258,261,272,274,338 ;161/86,149 |
References Cited
[Referenced By]
U.S. Patent Documents
Foreign Patent Documents
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
658,631 |
|
Feb 1963 |
|
CA |
|
126,455 |
|
Dec 1901 |
|
DD |
|
277,582 |
|
Sep 1927 |
|
GB |
|
Primary Examiner: Hunter; H. Hampton
Claims
I claim:
1. A waistband assembly for an article of wearing apparel
comprising an inwardly folded shell waistband and a strip of woven
textile material positioned inwardly of the shell waistband to
stiffen the latter and preclude rollover thereof, the strip
comprising resilient, comparatively stiff monofilaments in the
transverse direction, one edge of the strip being positioned within
the fold of the shell waistband, and adjacent the bight thereof,
said edge having a bead of plastic material adherent to the strip,
said material being taken from the class consisting of polyvinyl
chloride, polyvinyl acetate and polyamides together with a
plasticizer, said bead, when cured, encapsulating and gripping the
ends of the monofilaments and at least one warp thread adjacent
said edge and filling the interstices between the warp and weft
coextensive with the bead to bond the warp and weft, further
precluding displacement of the monofilaments, said bead being not
substantially greater in thickness than the strip, said bead
providing a buffer zone between the ends of the monofilaments and
the adjacent shell waistband fabric, said material being
thermoplastic and, when cured, proof against degradation at the
temperatures encountered in conventional drycleaning and laundering
operations and the substances employed in said operation.
2. The combination in accordance with claim 1 in which the strip is
curved transversely with the concave side facing inwardly of the
article.
Description
BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION
In my U.S. Pat. No. 3,155,986, granted Nov. 10, 1964, there is
disclosed a waistband construction wherein one component of the
assembly is a woven strip which is comparatively rigid but
resilient in the narrow or weft direction and is utilized to
preclude rolling over of the edge of the garment at which the
waistband is located. The strip has transverse curvature which,
combined with the resilient weft, exerts a force on the shell
fabric in a direction toward the wearer. Thus embonpoint which
tends to cause rollover of the garment, e.g. trousers, is resisted.
In order to exert the desired force and yet possess the
yieldability to adapt to the movements of the wearer with
consequent freedom from discomfort the strip, in a preferred form,
comprises a woven fabric having a monofilament in the weft and a
cotton thread in the warp. With this construction the initially
flat strip may be molded under heat into the curved transverse
cross section. The blank strip may be obtained by slitting a broad
fabric or by weaving on a narrow loom. In the case where the strips
are cut from board fabric, whether by cold shearing or by the use
of a hot knife, the edges of the fabric are rough. In the case of
hot cutting a strip containing nylon or other thermoplastic in the
weft the edges become even more erose and brittle. Although the
initial broad fabric may be treated to bond the warp and weft, the
bonding material may become degraded during laundering and
drycleaning. Accordingly, the weft threads being short, smooth and
wiry, may work out at the edges to a greater or lesser degree. In
any case the rough edges, from whatever cause, can abrade and
puncture the shell fabric overlying the one edge of the strip, with
obviously undesirable results. In the case of strip woven on a
narrow loom the return bights of the weft, i.e. the selvage, tend
to break, with the same undesirable protrusion of points which may
penetrate the shell fabric and abrade the same. Obviously, abrasion
and puncture of the cloth overlying the strip present serious
problems of discomfort and premature wear of the garment.
Heretofore, an attempt has been made to solve the problem to which
the present invention is directed by covering the offending edge of
the strip by an edge binding. Not only is this an expensive
expedient but adds undesirable bulk.
SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION
The present invention relates to improvements in the waistband
disclosed in my said patent. Specifically, the stiffening strip of
the character described therein has at least one, and preferably
both edges of the strip provided with a bead acting as a buffer
between the rough edge and the fabric to which the strip is
adjacent. Further, the bead serves to lock the weft threads against
transverse shifting. Although it is ordinarily not necessary to
provide the bead on both edges, it is preferred to do so in order
that the manufacturer of the garment need not observe "left" or
"right" when sewing the strip into the waistband assembly, having
in mind that the bead is quite small in its transverse extent and
therefore tends to be visually merged into the strip per se. It
must be mentioned that a bead which is unnecessarily bulky may be
perceptible when the garment is worn and, for that reason,
objectionable. Further by restricting the size of the bead to the
greatest possible extent consistent with its function, feeding of
the strip to the sewing machine is facilitated.
DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
In the drawing:
FIG. 1 is an enlarged section taken transversely of the waistband
showing the relationship of the several fabric layers comprising a
typical waistband assembly incorporating the principles of the
invention;
FIG. 2 is a perspective view of a section of the stiffening strip
including the beaded edges;
FIG. 3 is a somewhat enlarged cross section taken on the line 3-3
of FIG. 2;
FIG. 4 is a view taken on the line 4-4 of FIG. 1;
FIG. 5 is a view similar to FIG. 4 but showing the behavior of the
weft of the stiffening strip in the absence of the beaded edge, in
the case of a strip cut from wider goods; and
FIG. 6 is a view similar to FIG. 5 except that the strip has been
woven on a narrow loom.
DESCRIPTION OF THE PREFERRED EMBODIMENT
By way of example, the invention will be described with reference
to the waistband of a pair of trousers, although it will be evident
that the same is adaptable to other garments such as skirts,
girdles and brassieres having an edge portion, not in the form of a
waistband in the usual sense, which is designed to resist
rollover.
The waistband 10, sometimes termed the shell fabric of the
waistband, since it is essentially a matching continuation of the
shell 11 of the garment, is joined to the shell by stitching 13. In
conventional trousers the waistband 10 is about 11/2 inches in
width, and is folded over to define a bight 15 and an inner
depending flap 16. Within the fold defined by the waistband 10 an
flap 16 there is disposed a stiffening strip 18, best seen in FIG.
2, and preferably of the construction disclosed in my said patent.
It will be noted that the strip is resilient and concave inwardly
of the garment in order to perform its function of precluding
rollover. In order to possess the resiliency required by this
function, the transverse threads 21 constituting the weft are
preferably a monofilament, e.g. nylon, capable of being woven and
then molded under heat to the curved transverse cross section.
Nylon is preferred as it will maintain the molded shape
notwithstanding laundering and dry cleaning operations, and is not
adversely affected by imparting a so-called "permanent press"
condition to the garment.
In the ordinary case the waistband assembly includes a curtain 23
comprising a pocketing type of material 24 and scrim or canvas 25,
both folded over at the top 26 and sewn together at the bottom, as
at 27. The flaps 28 and 29 abut the flap 16 and are sewn jointly
with this flap and the strip 18 by stitches 34.
For clarity in the drawing the several components of the waistband
assembly and their spacing are intentionally exaggerated.
Turning to FIG. 4 it will be noted that the weft threads 21 are
relatively short, say on the order of 1 inch and, further, that
they are resilient, i.e. do not readily assume the wavy form which
a conventional, nonsynthetic thread will assume when woven.
Accordingly, the weft threads 21 are not adequately locked into the
warp threads, e.g. cotton, and may therefore be easily dislodged.
FIG. 5 illustrates a strip 18a exhibiting this condition wherein
some weft threads are shown dislodged. To avert such dislodgement
the fabric, in the broad form in which it is initially woven, is
treated to bond the warp and weft at their intersections. However,
it has been found that the bonding substance is degraded during
laundering and drycleaning. In the case where the strip is slit
from wide goods, for example, by scoring or shearing, the edges of
the strip are rough and therefore abrasive. This roughness not only
causes abrasion of the adjacent fabric, i.e. the shell fabric, but
discomfort and annoyance. In the case of the strip 18b (FIG. 6),
woven on a narrow loom, similar roughness can develop in that the
return bights of the weft at the selvages may break due to the
bending on a small radius of a relatively stiff monofilament
yarn.
In accordance with the present invention at least that selvage of
the strip 18, which is uppermost when incorporated in the
waistband, is provided with a protective bead 31 which, in the
finished waistband, presents a smooth edge over which the fold 15
is made. Although the weft threads may be adequately locked by
providing the bead 31 on only one edge, i.e. the edge which is
uppermost in the finished garment, it is preferred to provide the
bead on both edges in order that the assembly of the strip 18 with
the waist band can be made without the annoyance of having to
differentiate between left- or right-hand feeding of the strip to
the sewing machine. The bead or beads 31 are preferably applied to
the strip immediately following molding thereof into the transverse
curve. It will be noted from FIG. 3 that the bead 31 not only forms
a finished edge preventing the needlelike ends of the weft threads
from penetrating or abrading the adjacent shell fabric but prevents
displacement of those threads. Furthermore, the material of the
bead flows into the interstices of the strip 18 to unit the bead,
warp and weft into an integrated whole, at least one of the warp
threads being embedded in the bead. In this way separation of the
bead is reliably prevented. Further it will be noted that the bead,
at its thickest part, is of substantially the same thickness as the
base fabric per se. In this way the flexibility of the strip is
essentially unimpaired and the bead is incapable of adding bulk to
the finished waistband.
It will be understood that the principles of the invention are
applicable to the case of a flat stiffening strip which exhibits
the same roughness at the edge.
Application of the bead or beads 31 can be accomplished by
extruding a suitable plastic composition e.g. a polymer, onto the
moving strip, e.g. during its transit through the molding machine,
the composition being in a sufficiently flowable condition,
whereafter the bead or beads are cured. It will be understood that
the resultant bead will desirably possess a resiliency
substantially the same as the fabric of the strip per se to avoid
boardiness in the completed waistband.
A suitable polymer is a plastisol composed of a polyvinyl
chloride-polyvinyl acetate copolymer resin where the vinyl acetate
portion is approximately 5 percent, together with a plasticizer.
The composition will yield 95 percent of its ultimate tensile
strength up to 400.degree. F. and will be found satisfactory in the
presence of present-day drycleaning solvents and laundering
materials. Pressing temperatures range from 230.degree. F. to
330.degree. F. So-called permanent press temperatures range from
310.degree. F. to 325.degree. F.
Where, herein, I refer to an inwardly folded shell waistband, e.g.
shown as a single layer in the drawing, it will be understood that
the same may comprise more than one layer over a part or the whole
thereof, and that the abrasion mentioned can affect deleteriously
such layers as comprise the fold 15.
* * * * *