U.S. patent application number 16/709736 was filed with the patent office on 2020-04-16 for textile constructs formed with fusible filaments.
The applicant listed for this patent is The North Face Apparel Corp.. Invention is credited to Mary-Ellen Smith, Eric Tuscia.
Application Number | 20200115831 16/709736 |
Document ID | / |
Family ID | 53479672 |
Filed Date | 2020-04-16 |
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United States Patent
Application |
20200115831 |
Kind Code |
A1 |
Tuscia; Eric ; et
al. |
April 16, 2020 |
TEXTILE CONSTRUCTS FORMED WITH FUSIBLE FILAMENTS
Abstract
A textile construct with a performance film formative built into
a textile structure. The textile construct needs only to be subject
to a fusing agent to cause the performance film formative to
convert from its lattice structure (e.g., knit or woven structure)
into a film that is built into a retained lattice structure of the
textile. More particularly, the formation of the textile construct
is based on fusion of selected filaments, e.g., thermoplastic
fibers or yarns, to selectively create a film on one side or layer
in the construct while substantially preserving the lattice
structure of an opposing side or adjacent layer of non-fusible
filaments in a lattice structure. This creates a hybrid
film/lattice textile construct. Both open-faced and sandwiched
constructions of the film in a unitary structure with the retained
lattice structure of another side or layer(s) are possible.
Inventors: |
Tuscia; Eric; (Oakland,
CA) ; Smith; Mary-Ellen; (Kihei, HI) |
|
Applicant: |
Name |
City |
State |
Country |
Type |
The North Face Apparel Corp. |
Wilmington |
DE |
US |
|
|
Family ID: |
53479672 |
Appl. No.: |
16/709736 |
Filed: |
December 10, 2019 |
Related U.S. Patent Documents
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Application
Number |
Filing Date |
Patent Number |
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15106020 |
Jun 17, 2016 |
10544528 |
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PCT/US14/72251 |
Dec 23, 2014 |
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16709736 |
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61920364 |
Dec 23, 2013 |
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61943349 |
Feb 22, 2014 |
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Current U.S.
Class: |
1/1 |
Current CPC
Class: |
B32B 27/32 20130101;
B32B 5/022 20130101; D10B 2331/04 20130101; B32B 5/22 20130101;
B32B 2262/0276 20130101; B32B 2262/0261 20130101; D10B 2401/041
20130101; B32B 27/34 20130101; B32B 2307/51 20130101; B32B 27/322
20130101; B32B 2262/0292 20130101; B32B 2307/724 20130101; D04B
1/18 20130101; D10B 2403/0112 20130101; D10B 2403/0243 20130101;
B32B 5/024 20130101; B32B 2307/7265 20130101; B32B 2437/00
20130101; D10B 2501/04 20130101; B32B 27/40 20130101; B32B
2262/0253 20130101; B32B 5/026 20130101; B32B 27/12 20130101; B32B
27/36 20130101; B32B 2262/062 20130101; D10B 2401/10 20130101; D04B
1/16 20130101; B32B 2262/08 20130101; B32B 5/26 20130101; D10B
2331/10 20130101; D10B 2403/0241 20130101; D04B 7/16 20130101 |
International
Class: |
D04B 7/16 20060101
D04B007/16; B32B 27/36 20060101 B32B027/36; B32B 27/34 20060101
B32B027/34; B32B 5/26 20060101 B32B005/26; B32B 5/22 20060101
B32B005/22; B32B 27/32 20060101 B32B027/32; B32B 5/02 20060101
B32B005/02; D04B 1/16 20060101 D04B001/16; D04B 1/18 20060101
D04B001/18; B32B 27/12 20060101 B32B027/12 |
Claims
1. An article of manufacture comprising a textile construct,
comprising: a unitary, hybrid structure of a textile lattice formed
from filaments and a thermoplastic film; the thermoplastic film
forming a first side or layer of the textile construct comprising a
film of fused material having a substantially solid surface area of
at least 90%; a second side or layer of the textile construct
comprising a discrete knit or woven lattice structure of filaments,
the second side or layer being adjacent to and coextensive with the
first side or layer and fused to it; and wherein the article is
selected from the group of an article of apparel, footwear, tent,
and backpack.
2. The article of claim 1 wherein the article is an item of
footwear.
3. The article of claim 1 wherein the article is an item of
apparel.
4. The article of claim 1 wherein the layer comprises a plurality
of planar sections and one section has material properties that are
different from an adjacent section.
5. The article of claim 4 wherein a first section has different
breathability from a second section.
6. The article of claim 5 wherein the first section comprises a
waterproof, breathable membrane and the second section does
not.
7. The article of claim 4 wherein the first section and section
sections differ in elasticity.
8. The article of claim 1 wherein the layer comprises a pocket.
9. The article of claim 1 wherein the layer is formed to have a
non-planar, 3D shape that is conformed to a selected area of an
intended user's anatomy, the film being fused to impart the 3D
shape.
10. The article of claim 1 wherein the layer is configured to form
a shaping dart.
11. The article of claim 1 wherein the layer is configured to form
one or more buttonholes.
12. The article of claim 1 wherein the layer is configured to form
a trim effect.
13. The article of claim 1 wherein the textile lattice comprises a
knit structure.
14. An article of manufacture comprising a textile construct,
comprising: a unitary, hybrid structure of a textile lattice formed
from filaments and a thermoplastic film; the thermoplastic film
forming a first side or layer of the textile construct comprising a
film of fused material having a substantially solid surface area of
at least 90%; a second side or layer of the textile construct
comprising a discrete knit or woven lattice structure of filaments,
the second side or layer being adjacent to and coextensive with the
first side or layer and fused to it; wherein the article is
selected from the group of an article of apparel, footwear, tent,
and backpack; and the article further comprising an outer layer,
the hybrid structure being assembled so that the film is an
intermediate layer between the outer layer and the lattice
structure wherein the film comprises a porous membrane of fused
material has a porosity or diffusibility sufficient to allow for
selective blocking of liquid phase water on one surface adjacent
the outer layer and passage of vapor phase water through the fused
lattice surface, the porosity being sufficient for air permeability
of 1.0 to 80 CFM.
15. The article of claim 14 wherein the porous membrane of fused
material has a pore density of at least 9 billion pores per square
inch and/or average pore size of 0.2 microns or less.
16. The article of claim 15 wherein the membrane provides
waterproofness or water resistance and/or breathability to the
construct according to any one of the following standards: Low
range hydrostatic--AATCC127 (Option 2) or JIS L1092; High range
hydrostatic--ASTM D751 (Fed Std 191-A55); MVTR (upright)--ASTM
E96B; MVTR (inverted)--JIS L 1099 (Method B); and Air
Permeability--ASTM D737.
17. The article of claim 1 wherein the construct has an elasticity
of 1% to about 30%.
18. The article of claim of 17 wherein the film has a thickness of
from about 0.5 mm to about 3 mm.
19. A method of forming a textile construct, comprising: providing
a composite textile lattice structure comprising an arrangement of
(i) a first group of fusible filaments in a first lattice structure
and (ii) a second group of non-fusible filaments in a second
lattice structure, the non-fusible filaments comprising shrinkable
filaments that are non-fusible relative to the fusible filaments,
the first and second lattice structures being coextensively
intermeshed to form the composite lattice structure, with the
fusible filaments being selectively disposed primarily on one side
of the composite lattice structure; subjecting the composite
lattice structure to a fusing agent sufficient to selectively cause
the fusible filaments in the first lattice structure to fuse into a
film substantially on one side or layer of the construct while
maintaining the second lattice structure substantially in a
discrete lattice structure, the fused film and the discrete lattice
structure being coextensively fused together, the film of fused
material having a substantially solid surface area of at least 90%;
and assembling the composite lattice structure into an article
selected from the group of an article of apparel, footwear, tent,
and backpack.
20. The method of claim 19 further comprising the step of imparting
a non-planar, 3D shape to the composite structure.
Description
RELATED APPLICATIONS
[0001] This application claims the benefit of and priority to U.S.
Non-Provisional application Ser. No. 15/106,020, filed Jun. 17,
2016, which claims benefit of and priority to PCT International
Application Serial Number PCT/US2014/072251, filed Dec. 23, 2014,
which claims the benefit of and priority to U.S. Provisional
Application Ser. No. 61/920,364, filed Dec. 23, 2013, and which
claims the benefit of and priority to U.S. Provisional Application
Ser. No. 61/943,349, filed Feb. 22, 2014, the contents of which are
hereby incorporated by reference as if recited in full herein for
all purposes.
BACKGROUND
[0002] The inventive subject matter generally relates to novel
textile constructions. It particularly relates to the formation of
textile constructs based on fusion of selected filaments, e.g.
fibers or yarns, in a textile structure to selectively create in
the structure a film on one surface or layer(s) while preserving
the lattice structure, e.g., the knit or woven structure of an
opposing side or adjacent layer. More particularly, the inventive
subject matter provides a textile construct wherein thermoplastic
yarns or fibers are melted to form a fused film on one side or
layer of the construct while another side or layer is maintained in
a discrete knitted structure. The fused film may provide a membrane
side or layer that has desired attributes, such as one or more of
waterproofness, water resistance, wind resistance, and
breathability.
[0003] A great demand exists for multi-attribute performance
textiles. This is especially true with regards to outdoor and
active sportswear. For example, there is a great demand for
garments that provide combinations for waterproofness, wind
resistance, and breathability, along with typical durability,
comfort, and aesthetic attributes. In such garments, some form of
wind or vapor barrier needs to be introduced onto a carrier or base
textile substrate. Conventionally, this may be achieved melt
coating or adhesively laminating a film onto a knit, woven or
non-woven textile substrate. The disadvantage of such conventional
techniques include that the processes are multi-step and component
process and a textile's breathability may be reduced because of the
adhesives used to join barrier layers to body portions of a
garment. Further, the extra processing steps add cost and time to
the manufacturing process, and weight to the finished article. The
conventional techniques also alter the material properties of the
underlying textiles that may detrimentally affect the suppleness of
the garment. The use of laminated materials and coated materials
also create finished products where the assembled materials are
prone to delamination and degradation.
[0004] Another drawback in the conventional techniques is that the
extra materials used and the separate assembly steps after
manufacturing of base textile materials results in wasted materials
and energy from cutting of materials to patterns and assembly of
the materials using stitched seams, coatings or adhesives, which
may not be ecofriendly.
SUMMARY
[0005] The inventive subject matter overcomes the disadvantages of
the prior art by, among other things, providing a textile construct
with a performance film formative built into a textile structure.
The textile construct needs only to be subject to a fusing agent to
cause the performance film formative to convert from its lattice
structure (e.g., knit or woven structure) into a film that is built
into a retained lattice structure of the textile. More
particularly, the formation of the textile construct is based on
fusion of selected filaments, e.g., thermoplastic fibers or yarns,
to selectively create a film on one side or layer in the construct
while preserving the lattice structure of an opposing side or
adjacent layer of non-fusible filaments in a lattice structure.
This creates a hybrid film/lattice textile construct. Both
open-faced and sandwiched constructions of the film in a unitary
structure with the retained lattice structure of another side or
layer(s) are possible.
[0006] The various advantages of the inventive subject matter
include that finished products can be engineered to have multiple
performance and functional attributes based primarily on the use of
standard textile formation processes and equipment. The performance
attributes that may be engineered include waterproof or resistance
characteristics, wind resistance, breathability, stretchability,
durability and comfort. The inventive subject matter provides an
eco-friendly alternative to existing technique by substantially
reducing waste, energy and manufacturing time relative to
conventional techniques.
[0007] In certain embodiments, the inventive subject is directed to
textile construct that includes a first side or layer comprising a
film of fused material; and a second side or layer in a discrete
lattice structure of filaments, the second side being adjacent to
and coextensive with the first side or layer, the fused film and
discrete lattice structure being formed in a unitary, composite
structure.
[0008] In some embodiments, the discrete lattice structure may be a
knitted and/or woven structure. In some embodiments, the construct
may be formed from a plaited knit structure of a plurality of two
or more paired filaments in a plurality of courses and wales, at
least one of the filaments being a fusible material that forms in
the film of fused material on the first side or layer of the
construct.
[0009] In some embodiments, the lattice construct may be a flat
bed, circular, or 3D plaited knit and/or woven structures.
[0010] In some embodiments, the discrete lattice structure may be
formed from a single jersey knit structure and the second side
comprises the fused film, the fused film being formed from
filaments in the same single jersey knit structure from which the
discrete lattice is formed.
[0011] In some embodiments, the discrete lattice structure may be
formed from within a double jersey knit structure and an
intermediate layer comprises the fused film, the fused film being
formed from spacer, fusible filaments in the same double jersey
knit structure from which the discrete lattice is formed.
[0012] In the single or double knit structure, the non-fusible yarn
used in a knit discrete lattice structure may be a shrinkable yarn.
In double jersey knit constructions, the spacer, fusible filament
may be a multifilament yarn.
[0013] In some embodiments, the construct may be an (1)
intermediate layer comprising the film and (2) adjacent layers on
each side of the intermediate layer comprising discrete lattice
structures, at least one of the adjacent sides comprising the
discrete lattice structure in a unitary structure with the film and
the other adjacent side comprises a second discrete lattice
structure of filaments in a unitary structure with the fused film
of the intermediate layer.
[0014] In some embodiments, the lattice may be a woven structure.
In some embodiments, the lattice may be a non-woven structure, such
as a mat or felt.
[0015] In some embodiments, the fused film may be a membrane side
or layer that provides waterproofness or water resistance and/or
breathability to the construct. In some embodiments, the fused film
may be a membrane side or layer that has porosity sufficient for
air permeability of 1.0 to 80 CFM.
[0016] In some embodiments, the fusible filament comprises one or
more filaments having a glass transition temperature of under about
110 degrees C. to about 160 degrees C. In some embodiments, the
filament may consist of multiple filaments having glass transition
temperatures of about 110 degrees C. to about 160 degrees C.
[0017] In some embodiments, the fusible filament comprises one or
more thermoplastic filaments such as filament comprising TPU. In
some possible embodiments, the fusible filament may be a
thermoplastic PTFE filament.
[0018] In some embodiments, the fusible filament (pre-fusion) may
be a bundle of between 1 to 150 filaments, each filament having
denier of from about 0.5 to about 170 denier, and the overall
bundle is from about 1 denier to about 170 denier.
[0019] In some embodiments, discrete lattice filament is selected
from group of polyester, nylon, wool, cotton and/or silk.
[0020] In some embodiments, the film comprises a membrane having a
porosity or diffusibility sufficient to allow for selective
blocking of liquid phase water on one surface and passage of vapor
phase water through an opposite surface during conditions intended
for an outdoor apparel usage.
[0021] In some embodiments, the film has a pore density of more
than 1 billion pores per inch.sup.2 In some embodiments, the
average pore size of pores in the film is less than 1 micron. In
some embodiments, the film may have at least 9 billion pores per
square inch. In some embodiments, the average pore size of pores in
the film is 0.2 microns or less.
[0022] In some embodiments, the construct has an elasticity of 1%
to about 30% before tensile failure, i.e., before reaching its
tensile limit, which is the greatest stress that can be applied to
a material without causing permanent deformation. (For metals and
other materials that have a significant straight line portion in
their stress/strain diagram, elastic limit is approximately equal
to proportional limit. For materials that do not exhibit a
significant proportional limit, elastic limit is an arbitrary
approximation (the apparent elastic limit)).
[0023] In some possible embodiments, the film may have a thickness
of from about 0.5 mm to about 3 mm.
[0024] In some possible embodiments of methods, the fusible
filament includes a thermoplastic yarn and the fusing agent may be
thermal energy.
[0025] In some possible embodiments, the shrink or stretch ratio of
the non-fusible filaments and fusible filaments may be matched so
that in the textile construct the shrinking or stretching of the
material for one of the film or discrete lattice structure will not
cause delamination, separation, tearing or other significant damage
to the other of the film or lattice structure during shrinking or
stretching of the textile construct.
[0026] In some possible embodiments of methods, the membrane side
or layer provides waterproofness or water resistance and/or
breathability to the construct according to one or more of the
following standards: [0027] Low range hydrostatic--AATCC127 (Option
2) or JIS L1092; [0028] High range hydrostatic--ASTM D751 (Fed Std
191-A55); [0029] MVTR (upright)--ASTM E96B; [0030] MVTR
(inverted)--JIS L 1099 (Method B); and [0031] Air
Permeability--ASTM D737
[0032] The inventive subject matter is also directed to a method of
forming a textile construct, which may include the steps of:
providing a composite lattice structure comprising an arrangement
of (i) a first group of fusible filaments in a first lattice
structure and (ii) a second group of non-fusible filaments in a
second lattice structure, the first and second lattice structures
being coextensively intermeshed to form the composite lattice
structure, with the fusible filaments being selectively disposed
primarily on one side of the composite lattice structure; and
subjecting the composite lattice structure to a fusing agent, e.g.,
chemical, thermal, IR, ultrasonic, electromagnetic, electric,
and/or pressure, sufficient to selectively cause the fusible
filaments in the first lattice structure to fuse into a film
substantially on one side or layer of the construct while
maintaining the second lattice structure substantially in a
discrete lattice structure.
[0033] In some possible embodiments of methods, the composite
lattice structure further comprises a third group of non-fusible
filaments in a third lattice structure on an opposite side of the
film as the second lattice structure.
[0034] These and other embodiments are described in more detail in
the following detailed descriptions and the figures.
[0035] The following is a description of various inventive lines
under the inventive subject matter. The appended claims, as
originally filed in this document, or as subsequently amended, are
hereby incorporated into this Summary section as if written
directly in. The foregoing is not intended to be an exhaustive list
of embodiments and features of the inventive subject matter.
Persons skilled in the art are capable of appreciating other
embodiments and features from the following detailed description in
conjunction with the drawings.
BRIEF DESCRIPTION OF THE DRAWINGS
[0036] The accompanying figures show embodiments according to the
inventive subject matter, unless noted as showing prior art.
[0037] FIG. 1 shows a knitted textile construct before softening or
melting of a fusible filament used in the construct.
[0038] FIGS. 2A-2B show the construct of FIG. 1 after varying
degrees of fusion of the fusible filaments; and FIG. 2C shows the
opposite of the construct shown in FIG. 2C.
[0039] FIG. 3.1 is a cross-sectional view of the construct shown in
FIGS. 2B-2C.
[0040] FIG. 3.2 shows a cross-sectional view of an alternative
embodiment where the fused layer is sandwiched between discrete
lattice structures.
[0041] FIG. 4 shows a representative multi-filament yarn according
to the prior art.
[0042] FIG. 5 shows a cross-sectional view of the yarn of FIG.
4.
[0043] FIG. 6A shows the formation of a first plaited textile
structure on the first set of needles.
[0044] FIG. 6B shows the formation of a second plaited textile
structure on a second set of needles.
[0045] FIG. 6C shows a fusible filament used to interlock to the
first and second plaited structures on the first and second needle
sets shown in FIGS. 6A-6B.
[0046] FIG. 6D shows the completed structure (still on needle sets)
with an intermediate layer of the fusible filament, before fusion
of that layer, based on the integration of structures shown in
FIGS. 6A-6B.
[0047] FIG. 7 shows an example of garments that may include a
textile construct made according to the teachings herein.
[0048] FIGS. 8A-8E illustrate one possible knitting structure and
scheme for a textile construct with a fusible layer.
[0049] FIGS. 9A-9B illustrate possible knitting steps and pattern
for a textile construct with a fusible layer per FIGS. 8A-8E.
[0050] FIG. 10A illustrate knitting steps and pattern for an
alternative textile construct with a fusible layer.
[0051] FIG. 10B illustrate knitting steps and pattern for an
alternative textile construct with a fusible layer.
[0052] FIGS. 11A-11C show a conventional double jersey knit
construction with standard yarns.
[0053] FIGS. 12A-12C illustrate one possible knitting structure and
scheme for a textile construct with a fusible layer.
[0054] FIG. 13A shows a cross-section of a representative,
conventional multi-filament yarn;
[0055] FIG. 13B shows a side view of a length of the yarn of FIG.
13A.
[0056] FIG. 14A shows a cross-section of a representative,
conventional multi-filament yarn;
[0057] FIG. 14B shows a side view of a length of the yarn of FIG.
14A.
[0058] FIG. 15 shows a representative multicomponent yarn for use
in textile constructs according to certain embodiments disclosed
herein.
[0059] FIG. 16A shows a cross-section of a multifilament yarn
formed of a core of multi-component yarns and surrounding textured
yarns; FIG. 16B shows a side view of a length of the yarn of FIG.
16A.
DETAILED DESCRIPTION
[0060] Representative embodiments according to the inventive
subject matter are shown in FIGS. 1-16, wherein the same or
generally similar features share common reference numerals.
[0061] The inventive subject matter generally to relates to the
formation of textile constructs based on fusion of selected
filaments, e.g., yarns or fibers, in a lattice formed of the yarns
or fibers to create in the textile asymmetric surfaces or layers in
a textile construct. (Herein, products and components therefor, or
sections or portions of products or components, may generally be
referred to as "constructs.) More particularly, the inventive
subject matter provides a textile construct wherein thermoplastic
yarns or fibers are melted to form a textile construct that has a
fused film on one side or layer while another side or layer is
maintained in a discrete knitted structure. The fused film may
provide a membrane side or layer that has desired attributes such
as waterproofness or water resistance and breathability. The
textile construct may be formed from a knit or woven structure
based on various techniques known in the art. It may be formed from
mat or felt structures based on various techniques known in the
art.
[0062] As used herein, "filament" generally means a thin strand of
material and encompasses yarns, threads, fibers, wires, cables and
like thin, strand structures that maybe used to create a knitted,
woven and nonwoven textiles. A filament may be in a single filament
or multiple filaments arranged to function as a single strand of
material.
[0063] As used herein, "lattice" means an arrangement of points or
elements in a generally regular periodic pattern, particularly in a
crisscrossing, interlacing, inter-looping or intertwined pattern,
as in knitted or woven structures. Although not technically within
this description due to their irregularity in crisscrossing or
intertwining of fiber elements, textiles having a mat or felt form
are intended to be included as lattice structures herein unless
context dictates otherwise.
[0064] As used herein in connection to filament dimensions,
"diameter" means the diameter of a circular cross-section, in the
strict sense of the word "diameter", and for filaments that have
non-circular cross-sections, e.g., ovals and polygons, diameter
means the non-circular filament has a cross-sectional area that
corresponds to a circular cross-section that gives the same
cross-sectional area. In case of filaments that do not have uniform
diameters or cross-sectional areas along the length, an average for
the length of a filament may be used. (Averages may also be used
for other non-uniform structural or material parameters pertaining
to this specification.)
[0065] As used herein, "film" means a thin, monolithic layer of
material. A film may or may not have porosity but if porous, it has
a substantially solid surface area, i.e., open pores do not account
for a majority of the surface area. For example, a film may have at
least a solid surface area of about 50% to about 100%, and
includes, 50%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, 96%, 97%, 98%,
99%, 99.9%, and 99.99% solid surface area.
[0066] As used herein, "membrane" means a film that separates two
fluids (e.g., water or air external to a garment and air or vapor
in the internal (user side) of a garment) and acts as a selective
barrier, allowing some particles to pass through preferentially
relative to others, e.g., allows water in vapor phase to pass
through but not water in liquid phase.
[0067] In certain embodiments, the inventive subject matter is
directed to a textile construct, and related methods of
construction, wherein fusible filaments, such as thermoplastic
yarns or fibers in a lattice are melted to form a textile construct
that has a fused film on one side or layer while another side or
layer is maintained in a discrete knitted structure. The fused film
may provide various functional or performance attributes. For
example, it may serve as a complete or partial barrier to air and
water. It may serve as a stretchable layer for form fitting. It may
serve as durable or protective layer against abrasion or impact
force. Any combination of such functional properties may engineered
into a textile construct according to the inventive subject
matter.
[0068] FIGS. 1 to 7 show representative textile constructs 10, 100,
200, 300 having lattice in the nature of plaited knit structures
and finished product 400, 500 that may embody the constructs. FIGS.
1 and 2A-2B show the construct 10 before and after varying degree
of fusing of certain fusible filaments 12 in the knitted structure
shown. FIG. 2A shows a partial fusion of filaments 12 to
non-fusible filaments 13 to create a monolithic highly porous
structure 112 on one side 14 and a discrete lattice structure of
non-fusible filaments on the other side 16. Such a structure might
be desirable in applications where permeability or breathability is
needed. FIG. 2B shows filaments 12 fused into a film that has
little or no porosity. Such an application may be desired where
waterproofness and/or wind block is desired. Any degree of fusing
between the structures of FIGS. 2A and 2C-D is also contemplated
under the inventive subject matter.
[0069] The plaited knit constructs shown in the Figures are formed
from a plurality of two or more paired filaments 12, 13 in a
plurality of courses and wales, at least one of the paired
filaments 12 being a fusible material that forms into a film 112 of
fused material on the first side or layer of the construct. The
structure may be a fabric formed using standard techniques for flat
or circular plaited knit structures. In some embodiments, the
fusible filament is made of a thermoplastic material that melts at
a set temperature. Example materials are described in more detail
below. In some embodiments, the non-fusible filament is made of a
standard yarn or thread such as polyester, nylon, cotton, wool,
etc.
[0070] In some cases, the fusible filament may be bundle with
non-fusible filaments, with the fusible films fusing around or to
the non-fusible filaments and forming a film containing the
non-fusible filaments.
[0071] As used herein, "fusible" and "non-fusible" are relative
terms that mean under a given set of conditions, such as heat, the
fusible filaments are capable of transforming to a glass or fluid
state and congealing with each other into a film. In contrast,
under the same conditions, the non-fusible filaments do not
transition significantly to such states, and therefore remain
substantially in discrete filament forms. However, in such forms,
the fusible filaments may fusion bond to the non-fusible filaments.
(As used herein, the non-fusible filaments may also be referred to
as "lattice filaments", reflecting that they are retained
substantially in a lattice form.) Further, a non-fusible filament
may be made primarily of non-fusible material but include a minor
portion that fuses for enhanced fusion bonding to the film formed
from the fusible filament or to another substrate. As an example of
use with another substrate, the non-fusible filament could have a
core of non-fusible material and a surrounding sheath of fusible
material. The sheath material could be adapted to fuse to another
layer of textile or other object used in the construction or
assembly of a product, such as a garment, while the core material
is retained in its discrete lattice structure. For example, the
textile construct with a film formed from the fusible filaments
could be combined with a separate sheet of material, e.g., an outer
shell material for a jacket, by fusing the sheath material with the
outer shell material. This results in the discrete lattice
structure from the core material of the non-fusible elements being
disposed between the outer shell material and the film from the
fusible filaments.
[0072] As well understood by persons of skilled in the art, in weft
knit plating the fabric is constructed by feeding two yarns to one
set of needles ("single jersey" or "single knit") so that one
orients and is arranged primarily on a first side 14 of the fabric
and the other orients and is arranged primarily on an opposite,
second side 16 of the fabric, as seen in FIGS. 2B-C and 3.1, for
example. FIG. 3.1 is cross-sectional view of the textile construct
200. (FIG. 3.2 is a cross-sectional view of a sandwiched textile
construct 300, which is discussed below.)
[0073] The inventive subject matter also encompasses multilayer
textile, i.e., textile structures formed from multiple layers of
knitted, woven or non-woven lattices of filaments. For example
multilayer constructions may be achieved using forms of double-knit
construction. Accordingly, the inventive subject matter provides a
replacement for conventional, woven three-layered fabrics that are
coated or laminated with a wind/water proof barrier. One possible
implementation of three-layer construction contemplated by the
inventive subject matter consists of an (1) outerwear shell fabric
(e.g., a durable and/or aesthetic layer); (2) an intermediate layer
of barrier film that may be a waterproof layer, a
waterproof/breathable layer, or a wind resistance layer, etc.; and
(3) an internal layer of liner fabric (e.g., a durable, insulation,
and/or comfort layer). Using the teachings herein, such three-layer
textiles come off the textile forming equipment, e.g., a knitting
machine, without the need for more layers, such as the barrier
layer, to be added in a post-textile formation steps. The barrier
layer may correspond to film 112; the outer shell may correspond to
side 14, and the inner liner may correspond to side 16.
[0074] FIGS. 6A-6D and 3.2 show an example of a three-layer
sandwiched construction may created by using multiple sets of
knitting needles, as in the known two-needle technique of double
jersey knit construction, which is formed by laid-in knit
construction. FIGS. 6A-D illustrate a scheme for constructing a
three-layer fabric, as described above. First and second sets of
needles 18, 20 are arranged to receive and manipulate filaments 12,
13 used in the construction of the layers. FIG. 6A shows the
formation of a first plaited textile structure on the first set of
needles. A first filament is paired with a second filament to form
the plaited structure. The first filament may be a fusible yarn,
such as a TPU yarn, and the second yarn may be a non-fusible yarn,
such as polyester yarn. FIG. 6B shows the formation of a second
plaited textile structure on the second set of needles. A first
filament is paired with a second filament to form the second
plaited textile structure. The first filament may be a fusible
yarn, such as a TPU yarn, and the second yarn may be a non-fusible
yarn, such as polyester yarn. FIG. 6C represents another filament
12 used in a tucking process to interloop with and couple to the
first and second plaited structures on the first and second needle
sets.
[0075] FIG. 6D shows the completed structure (still on needle sets
18, 20) with an intermediate layer of the fusible filament, before
fusion of that layer. The finished product of the double knit
textile formation is then subjected to a fusing agent, such as
heat, to create textile construct 300 (FIG. 3.2) with a fused film
112 and adjacent layers 113 with a discrete lattice structure.
[0076] The intermediate, film layer 112 of textile construct 300 is
formed from the combination of fusible filaments 12a, 12b, and 12c
used in the first plaited structure, the second plaited structure
and the tucking layer. In some cases, the fusible filaments used in
the plaited structures may be omitted in favor or non-fusible
filaments 13a or 13b, and just the filaments 12c used for tucking
provide the film 112 formation material. In other cases, the
tucking filament 12c is non-fusible and just fusible filaments 12a
or 12b in one or both of the first and second plaited structures
provide the fusible material for film formation.
[0077] The filaments used to form the intermediate layer and the
layers that are adjacent and outwardly disposed from the
intermediate layer may each have the same or different filaments or
properties from the intermediate layer and/or from each other. For
example, fusible filaments 12 in the intermediate layer 112, and
the first plaited textile structure (FIG. 6A) and second plaited
textile structure (FIG. 6B) may be fused into a film that serves as
a waterproof and breathable membrane. An adjacent outer layer 113
may be formed of filaments, e.g., yarns, which are suitable as a
durable outer shell material for a garment. And an adjacent inner
layer may serve as a layer that provides durability, comfort and/or
insulation against the skin of a user of the garment. Further, use
of multiple layers allows functional intermediate layers to be
hidden from view so that more aesthetic materials to be used at the
outer and inner sides of a garment. Other performance features that
may be provided by the fusible layer of filaments in a textile
construct of one or more layers not only include water resistance
and breathability but also strength and insulation, fire
retardancy, and other features.
[0078] In addition to knitting methods, the inventive subject
matter also contemplates structures formed using woven and nonwoven
techniques, e.g., woven double clothes and multilayered
nonwovens.
[0079] Once the desired structure is created that selectively
disposes fusible filaments 12 in a lattice structure substantially
on one side or layer in a textile construct, the construct is
subjected to an agent that causes fusion of fusible filaments the
side or layer substantially at the side or layer where the fusible
filaments are selectively oriented and arranged. The fusing agent
may be a condition or a physical mechanism. For example, the
transition from filaments to film may be promoted using thermal,
electromagnetic, or electrical energy. Or it may be provided by
reaction with a chemical or with a pressure applicator such as
rollers.
[0080] As seen in the Figures, following action by the fusing
agent, textile construct has a first side or layer 14 comprising a
film 112 of fused material formed from the fusible filaments 12 and
a second side or layer 16 in a substantially discrete lattice
structure 113 of the non-fusible filaments 13. The second side 16
will be adjacent to and generally coextensive with the first side
or layer. As a result of fusion bonding between the fused film and
the discrete lattice structure, the overall structure of the
textile may be referred to as a "unitary" structure. Unlike prior
art textile constructs formed by bonding or fusing thermoplastic
filaments into a structure of entirely one class or another (i.e.,
cross-sectionally a lattice form or film form, but not both), the
inventive subject matter creates novel textile constructs that when
taken in cross-section (see FIGS. 3.1 and 3.2) are hybrid
lattice/film structures where the construct is a unitary structure
that has a film of fused filaments on one side or layer and a
discrete lattice structure on the other side or in adjacent layers.
Such constructs may be referred to herein as "hybrid lattice/film"
constructs.
[0081] As used in the preceding paragraph, "substantially" means
that the non-fusible filaments 13 forming into the discrete lattice
structure 113 do not themselves undergo an overall loss of their
filamentous structure. The filaments and structure may undergo
changes in dimension or shape so long as a discrete lattice
structure remains. For example, the filaments in the discrete
structure may undergo changes in cross-sectional shape, such as
transitioning from circular cross sections to oval cross sections
when subjected to heat. Similarly, the lattice structure may change
dimensions or shapes, e.g., the openings may contract or expand
when subjected to an agent that causes fusion and/or the
geometrical shape of the openings may change.
[0082] In certain embodiments, the fused film 112 in a textile
construct is a membrane that provides waterproofness and
breathability to the construct according to one or more industry
standards listed below. A range of degrees of waterproofness and/or
breathability may be achieved empirically by varying the porosity
of the film. Porosity may be controlled by one or more of the
following: varying the density of openings in the knitted, woven or
non-woven structure; controlling fusion conditions, such as time
and temperature of melt; varying the size of filaments; varying the
material properties of a filament, particularly the fusible
filaments; and varying the number of filaments in a filament formed
of a bundle of multiple filaments, particularly the fusible
filaments; and/or varying the diameter of filaments in a filament
formed from a bundle of filaments, particularly the fusible
filaments. In some embodiments, a porosity for providing a
breathable and waterproof membrane is achieved by providing a
fusible filament formed from a bundle of multiple fusible
filaments, the overall filament bundle having a denier of from 1 to
about 170. Individual filaments in the bundle may have deniers
ranging from 0.5, 1, 5, 10, 15, 20, 25, 30, 35, 40, 45, 50, 55, 60,
65, 70, 75, 80, 85, 90, 95, 100, 105, 110, 115, 120, 125, 130, 135,
140, 145, 150, 160, 165, 170. Each filament bundle may have from
2-150 or more individual filaments of the same or different sizes,
compositions, material properties, shapes and dimensions, and the
individual filaments may be monofilaments or multifilament.
[0083] It is expected that a range of film thicknesses can be
achieved using the teachings herein, including without limitation,
film thicknesses of from 0.5 mm to about 3 mm. Suitable fusible
filaments include meltable filaments such as those formed of
thermoplastic polyurethane (TPU) and others, as discussed in more
detail below. TPU is renowned for its many potential attributed,
including its water resistance and breathability, high elongation
(stretch) and tensile strength; its elasticity; and, to varying
degrees, its ability to resist oil, grease, solvents, chemicals and
abrasion. TPU filaments may be formulated to provide textile
constructs, and finished products using the constructs, that, among
other things, have lightweight, softness, suppleness, good drape,
and comfortable stretchability, as well wind resistance and
waterproofness. TPU filaments may be selected to provide glass
transition temperatures in the range of about 110 degrees C. to
about 160 degrees C., which allows for use with non-fusible
filaments that may degrade under higher temperatures. The
flowability of melting polymer is expected to increase by
increasing the number of filaments in a bundle, the filament size,
and/or by selecting filaments having relatively low glass
transition temperatures. Therefore, degrees of waterproofness, wind
resistance and breathability may be engineered into products in
desired locations by controlling the film formation process.
[0084] Fusible filaments according to the inventive subject matter
may be a combination of thermoplastic materials. The filaments may
have other components such as dyes and other finishing agents used
in textile processing. In some embodiments, the filaments may be
impregnated with microscale or nanoscale particles that are, for
example, volatile components that are driven out of films to create
desired porosities or other properties. In other cases, the
impregnated particles may be conductive particles to impart
conductivity to films for use in or as electrical circuits or
devices.
[0085] To achieve a stable and well-formed unitary construction for
the textile construct, it may be desirable to match the indices of
shrinkage and/or stretchability for fusible and non-fusible fibers
with each other so that there is no delamination, tearing,
separation or fracture at the material interfaces following fusion.
For example, the materials should be matched sufficiently so that
they will elastically elongate without tensile failure at about the
same rates in areas of the textile construct in a finished product
that are subject to stretch. It is expected that suitable matching
may be achieved by materials that have stretchability (elongation)
values to tensile failure that under given test conditions are
within 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, or 0% of each other. Similarly,
materials may shrink under various conditions, including washing,
heat, or cold. Similar matching of materials may be needed to
ensure that shrinkage does not cause damage from delamination,
tearing, separation or fracture at the material interfaces
following fusion. It is expected that suitable matching may be
achieved by materials that have shrinkage values under given
conditions that are within 40%, 30%, 20%, 10%, 5%, or 0% of each
other.
[0086] The construct may be provided with a range of elasticity or
conversely rigidity by selecting filaments having desired material
properties. A range of overall material properties for the
construct may be achieved by selectively using such filaments as
the fusible or non-fusible filaments, or as filaments in a bundle
of multiple filaments forming a fusible or non-fusible filament.
The filaments may be of microscale or nanoscale diameters, namely
from 1-100 nanometers, or larger.
[0087] In certain embodiments, the innovative textile constructs
are three-dimensionally shaped (i.e., non-planar) textile
constructs for use in a variety of products, such as apparel,
footwear, or equipment (e.g., backpacks, tents, etc.) products. The
formation of three-dimensional textile constructs with performance
films allows for seamless construction of articles, such as
waterproof-breathable jackets, that conventionally required seamed
connections of sections of the barrier films.
[0088] Published US Applications US20130255103 and 20130260629
relate to textiles that include sections of film formed from melted
yarns and are hereby incorporated by reference in their entireties
for all purposes. In contrast to the inventive subject matter, the
referenced applications do not teach or suggest the novel textile
constructs of the present inventive subject matter wherein, for
example, the textile constructs are formed to provide a film on one
side or layer of the construct and a discrete lattice structure on
the opposing or adjacent side or layer. Therefore, the textile
constructs of the published patent applications require additional
assembly steps and materials to achieve the full functionality of
the inventive subject matter. Nonetheless, the published patent
applications include useful background information on general
textile technology that may be adapted for use in the inventive
subject matter, as conveyed by the following passages.
[0089] Although the yarns, threads, and textiles are disclosed
below as being incorporated into various articles of apparel (e.g.,
outerwear, shirts and footwear), for purposes of example, the
textile constructs may also be incorporated into a variety of other
articles. For example, the textile constructs may be used in
seamless and seamed products and components of products, including,
without limitation, apparel, footwear, tents, backpacks, and
containers, and upholstery for furniture. The yarns, threads, and
textiles may also be utilized in bed coverings, table coverings,
vehicle coverings, tarps, and towels.
[0090] Various configurations of the textile constructs may also be
utilized for industrial purposes, as in automotive and aerospace
applications, filter materials, medical textiles, geotextiles,
agrotextiles, and industrial apparel. Accordingly, the textile
constructs may be utilized in a variety of articles for both
personal and industrial purposes.
[0091] Textiles may be defined as any manufacture from filaments
having a generally two-dimensional structure (i.e., a length and a
width that are substantially greater than a thickness). In general,
textiles may be classified as non-woven textiles or
mechanically-manipulated textiles. Non-woven textiles are webs or
mats of filaments that are bonded, fused, interlocked, or otherwise
joined. As an example, a non-woven textile may be formed by
randomly depositing a plurality of polymer filaments upon a
surface, such as a moving conveyor. Mechanically-manipulated
textiles are often formed by weaving or inter-looping (e.g.,
knitting) a yarn or a plurality of yarns, usually through a
mechanical process involving looms or knitting machines. Whereas
woven textiles include yarns that cross each other at right angles
(i.e., warp and weft yarns), knitted textiles include one or more
yarns that form a plurality of intermeshed loops arranged in
courses and wales.
[0092] A fusible or non-fusible filament 12 or 13 and a section
thereof are depicted in FIGS. 4 and 5. The filament shown is a
yarn. However, that configuration is merely illustrative and other
filament forms are possible. In general, yarn 12 or 13 may be used
for a variety of purposes, including sewing, stitching, and
embroidering. Yarn 12 or 13 may also be utilized for making a
thread, cable, cord, or rope. Various textiles may also be produced
from yarn 12 or 13 through weaving and knitting, for example.
Although a relatively short length of yarn 12 or 13 is shown, yarn
12 or 13 may have a significantly greater length. More
particularly, the length of yarn 12 or 13 may significantly exceed
one-thousand or even ten-thousand meters. Depending upon the manner
in which yarn 12 or 13 is formed, yarn 12 or 13 may be a spun yarn
or an air-textured yarn and/or core spun multifilament yarns where
the core yarn may shrink. This yarn has a monofilament core which
has a controlled amount of shrinkage of 5%-40%, or of 5%-15%, or
thereabout, wrapped around the mono filament core is a
multifilament textured yarn. During the application of heat and
pressure the TPU yarn will melt & shrink and the hard yarn will
shrink to a lesser extent, closing up the pores of the knit
structure to obtain a low air porosity, i.e., to block the amount
of air/wind that is allowed to go through the fabric.
[0093] In the example of FIGS. 4-5, filament 12 or 13 is a yarn
formed from a plurality of filaments 1 that are bundled or
otherwise gathered to form a generally thin and elongate structure.
The number of filaments 1 that are incorporated into yarn 12 or 13
may vary significantly and may range between two and three hundred
or more. Fibers are often defined, in textile terminology, as
having a relatively short length that ranges from one millimeter to
a few centimeters or more, whereas filaments are often defined as
having a longer length than fibers or even an indeterminate length.
As used herein, the term "filament" or variants thereof is intended
to encompass lengths of both fibers and filaments from the textile
terminology definitions. Accordingly, filaments 1 or other
filaments referred to herein, may generally have any length. As an
example, therefore, filaments 1 may have a length that ranges from
one millimeter to hundreds of meters or more. Individual filaments
1 may also have lengths that extend through an entire length of
yarn 12 or 13. Filaments 1 may be substantially aligned or they may
have a twist or rotational arrangement in an overall bundle.
[0094] In some embodiments according to the inventive subject
matter, the fusible filaments 12 are primarily formed from a
thermoplastic polymer material. In general, a thermoplastic polymer
material softens or melts when heated and returns to a solid state
when cooled. More particularly, a thermoplastic polymer material
transitions from a solid state to (1) a softened state when heated
to a glass transition temperature of the thermoplastic polymer
material and (2) a generally liquid state when heated to a melting
temperature of the thermoplastic polymer material. Then, when
sufficiently cooled, the thermoplastic polymer material transitions
from the softened or liquid state to the solid state. As such, the
thermoplastic polymer material may be softened or melted, molded,
cooled, re-softened or re-melted, re-molded, and cooled again
through multiple cycles. When heated to at least the glass
transition temperature, thermoplastic polymer materials may also be
welded, fused, or thermally bonded, as described in greater detail
below, to join an element formed from the thermoplastic polymer
material to another object, item, or element. In contrast, with
thermoplastic polymer materials, many thermoset polymer materials
do not melt when heated, instead simply degrading or burning.
[0095] Although a wide range of thermoplastic polymer materials may
be used for fusible filaments, examples of suitable thermoplastic
polymer materials include thermoplastic polyurethane, polyamide,
polyester, polypropylene, and polyolefin. Although fusible
filaments may be formed from any of the thermoplastic polymer
materials mentioned above, utilizing thermoplastic polyurethane
imparts various advantages. For example, various formulations of
thermoplastic polyurethane are elastomeric and stretch over
one-hundred percent, while exhibiting relatively high stability or
tensile strength. In comparison with some other thermoplastic
polymer materials, thermoplastic polyurethane readily forms thermal
bonds with other elements, as discussed in greater detail below.
Also, thermoplastic polyurethane may form foam materials and may be
recycled to form a variety of products.
[0096] Emerging technology now has resulted in thermoplastic
poly(tetrafluoroethylene) (PTFE), and meltable fibers made
therefrom, which may be adapted for use in forming membranes in
constructs according to the inventive subject matter. For example,
U.S. Pat. Nos. 8,329,839, 6,737,165, 6,207,275, and 5,552,219 teach
thermoplastic polymers and fibers that are based on copolymers with
a majority of the copolymer being formed of PTFE. The
aforementioned patents are incorporated by reference in their
entireties for all purposes. For example, it is contemplated,
however, that the PTFE may include minor amounts of one or more
co-monomers such as hexafluoropropylene, perfluoro(methyl vinyl
ether), perfluoro(propyl vinyl ether),
perfluoro(2,2-dimethyl-1,3-dioxole), and the like, provided,
however that the latter do not significantly adversely affect the
stability of the PTFE homopolymer for the intended environment. In
some applications, the amount of co-monomer does not exceed about 7
weight percent, and in others the PTFE has less than about 1 weight
percent of co-monomer. In other embodiments, the amount of
co-monomer does not exceed about 3 mole percent (herein "mol %`),
and in other embodiments, it is less than about 1 mol % or less
than 0.5 mol %. An indication of the thermoplastic flow behavior of
the polymer can be readily analyzed with the commonly employed
method of the determination of a melt-flow index (MFI). The latter
method, for the present PTFE's is conveniently and reproducibly
carried out according to ASTM test D1238-88, at 380.degree. C.
under a load of 21.6 kg, herein referred to as the melt flow index
or alternatively MFI (380/21.6). Under these experimental
conditions, and in a maximum extrudate-collection time of 1 hr.
conventional ultra-high molecular weight PTFE grades have an MR of
zero. In constrast, the PTFE grades according to inventive subject
matter have a non-zero MFI (380/21.6) in a maximum
extrudate-collection time of 1 hr. More preferably, the PTFE's are
characterized by an MFI (380/21.6) of greater than about 0.005,
more preferably of greater than about 0.2 g/10 min and most
preferably of greater than 0.25 g/10 min. The maximum value of the
melt-flow index of the PTFE grades used in the present invention
depends on the particular end product and processing technique. An
upper value of the MFI of about 10 g/10 min is preferred for most
applications in which the polymer solid is substantially isotropic;
more preferred is an upper value of the MFI of about 5 g/10 min,
and most preferred is 2.5 g/10 min.
[0097] As further elaborated upon below, the presence or absence of
molecular orientation is readily established by heating the article
to a temperature that is above its melting temperature. In
embodiments in which the PTFE grades are employed in articles which
are produced under processing conditions involving extensional or
shear flow, and display orientation of the polymer molecules as
defined above, the PTFE grades are characterized by a preferred
range of the melt flow index of an upper limit of 200 g/10 min;
more preferred the upper limit is about 75, and most preferred
50.
[0098] If in this case the PTFE grades according to the present
invention comprise a relatively high content of co-monomer the
upper limit of the MFI range of the preferred grades could be
higher. For example, if the PTFE contains up to 3 mol % of
co-monomer, the upper limit of the MFI range could extend up to
about 25 g/10 min, and a preferred range would be between 0.1 up to
about 15; when the co-monomer content is about 1 mol % or less, the
MFI range may extend up to about 15 g/10 min, more preferably the
MFI range would be between 0.1 up to about 10 g/10 min; and at a
content of 0.3 mol % or less the suitable MFI the preferred range
would not exceed about 5 g/10 min and more preferably would have an
MFI value in the above-noted range for PTFE polymers. In the event
the PTFE comprises a co-monomer and is oriented even higher MR
index could be useful including MFI ranges up to about 300 g/min
and more preferably 250 g/min or less.
[0099] In another embodiment of the present invention, the PTFE
grades are employed in articles which are typically produced under
processing conditions involving extensional or shear flow, such as
fibers spun from the melt at a spin stretch factor greater than 1,
extrusion through conical dies, and the like. Generally, these
processes result in articles that are not substantially isotropic,
and display orientation of the polymer molecules in one or more
directions. For example, in fibers spun under conditions involving
extensional flow, the polymer molecules typically elongate and
orient into the direction of the fiber axis. In melt-blown films,
the polymer molecules commonly are elongated and oriented in the
plane of the film. The presence or absence of preferred orientation
of polymer molecules in finished articles, such as the above
referred fibers and films, can readily be established by heating
the product to, for example, 10.degree. C. above its melting
temperature, at which point elongated and oriented polymer
molecules return to their relaxed isotropic state. The latter
process results in macroscopic change of shape of the product. As
an example, a fiber, in which the polymer molecules are oriented
along the fiber axis, will shrink along its long axis and increase
in diameter, upon heating of that fiber to a temperature that is
above its melting temperature. For the purpose of the present
invention, articles are said to be oriented when, upon heating to a
temperature that is 10.degree. C. above its melting temperature,
after melting the article displays a change in size of at least 5%
in at least one dimension. In embodiments in which the PTFE grades
are employed in articles which are produced under processing
conditions involving extensional or shear flow, and display
orientation of the polymer molecules as defined above, the PTFE
grades are characterized by a preferred range of the melt flow
index of an upper limit of 200 g/10 min; more preferred the upper
limit is about 75, and most preferred 50.
[0100] The PTFE grades according to the inventive subject matter
display good melt stretchability, which is highly beneficial for,
among other things, manufacturing of films, fibers, generally
thin-walled structures, and the like. As understood herein, melt
stretchability means the ability of a melt of the polymer to be
stretched without breaking at practically useful rates. Thus,
herein, a melt of the PTFE grades of good melt stretchability used
according to the inventive subject matter is defined as a melt,
that is extruded at 380.degree. C., that has a spin stretch factor
(SSF) of more than about 1.1, and more preferred more than about
1.2, measured at a stretching rate of 10%/sec. Under the above
conditions, common PTFE grades cannot be extruded, and, thus, do
not have a value of the spin stretch factor, as defined herein.
Furthermore, unlike melts of common PTFE grades, melts of the PTFE
grades of the present invention can be stretched at surprisingly
high rates without failure, for instance at rates greater than
10%/sec, preferably between 50 up to 5000%/sec, and most preferably
100%/sec up to 2500%/sec or more. These melt stretchability
characteristics are highly beneficial for, among other things, high
speed and economical manufacturing of films, tapes, fibers,
generally thin-walled structures, and the like. It is contemplated
that PTFE melts are stretchable at stretching rates of more than
10%/sec, at more than 50%/sec, and at more than 100%/sec. Values as
high as 1090%/sec are expected.
[0101] In some embodiments, the PTFE grades according to the
inventive subject matter may be characterized by an MFI (380/21.6)
between about 0.25 to about 200 g/10 min and a degree of
crystallinity of once-molten and recrystallized unoriented material
of between about 5% and about 60%. More preferably, the PTFE
polymer s a polymer having a single peak melting point temperature
which is above 325.degree. C. and is preferably a homogenous blend
of polymers and/or homopolymer.
[0102] The PTFE grades according to the inventive subject matter
may be synthesized according to standard chemical methods for the
polymerization of tetrafluoroethylene as described in detail in the
literature (for example, W. H. Tuminello et al, Macromolecules,
Vol. 21, pp. 2606-2610 (1988)) and as practiced in the art.
Additionally, PTFE grades according to the inventive subject matter
can be prepared by controlled degradation of common, high molecular
weight FIFE or low co-monomer content copolymers thereof, for
example by controlled thermal decomposition, electron beam, gamma-
or other radiation, and the like (Modem Fluoropolymers, J. Scheirs,
Ed. Wiley (New York), 1997 the entire disclosure of which is hereby
incorporated by reference). Furthermore, the PTFE grades according
to the inventive subject matter can be manufactured by blending of,
for example, high melt-flow index grades with appropriate amounts
of one or more grades of a lower, for instance below 0.5 g/10 min,
or zero melt-flow index to yield homogeneously blended materials
with values of the melt-flow index, viscosity or crystallinity in
the desired range. The latter, in effect bimodal, trimodal or
blends of even higher modality, and generally, FIFE grades with a
broad molecular weight distribution, are particularly beneficial
for use in processing schemes that involve elongation or shear
flow, such as melt-spinning of fibers at spin stretch factors
greater than 1, extrusion through conical dies, and the like. Due
to the relatively simple nature of the MFI-testing method,
viscosity measurement and crystallinity determination, using, for
example, these analytical tools, those skilled in the art of
polymer blending can readily adjust the relative portions of the
different PTFE grades to obtain the melt-processable, thermoplastic
PTFE compositions suitable for use in textile constructs according
to the inventive subject matter.
[0103] In many configurations of a fusible yarn, each of the
bundled component filaments 1 are entirely or substantially formed
from one or more thermoplastic polymer materials. That is, at least
50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 100% by weight
of a filament 1 is a thermoplastic polymer material. Advantages of
substantially forming filaments 1 from a thermoplastic polymer
material are uniform properties, the ability to form thermal bonds,
efficient manufacture, elastomeric stretch, and relatively high
stability or tensile strength. Although a single thermoplastic
polymer material may be used, individual filaments 1 may be formed
from multiple thermoplastic polymer materials. As an example, an
individual filament 1 may have a sheath/core configuration, wherein
an exterior sheath of the individual filament 1 is formed from a
first thermoplastic polymer material, and an interior core of the
individual filament 1 is formed from a second thermoplastic polymer
material. As a similar example, an individual filament 1 may have a
bi-component configuration, wherein one half of the individual
filament 1 is formed from a first thermoplastic polymer material,
and an opposite half of the individual filament 1 is formed from a
second thermoplastic polymer material. Although each of filaments 1
may be formed from a common thermoplastic polymer material,
different filaments 1 may also be formed from different materials.
As an example, some of filaments 1 may be formed from a first type
of thermoplastic polymer material, whereas other filaments 1 may be
formed from a second type of thermoplastic polymer material.
[0104] The thermoplastic polymer material of filaments 1 may be
selected to have various stretch properties, and the material may
be considered elastomeric. Depending upon the specific properties
desired for yarn 12, filaments 1 may stretch between ten percent to
more than eight-hundred percent prior to tensile failure. As a
related matter, the thermoplastic polymer material utilized for
filaments 1 may be selected to have various recovery properties.
That is, yarn 12 or filaments 1 may be formed to return to an
original shape after being stretched. Many products that
incorporate yarn 12, such as textiles and articles of apparel
formed from the textiles, may benefit from properties that allow
yarn 12 to return or otherwise recover to an original shape after
being stretched by one-hundred percent or more. Although many
thermoplastic polymer materials exhibit stretch and recovery
properties, thermoplastic polyurethane exhibits suitable stretch
and recovery properties for various textiles and articles of
apparel.
[0105] The weight of yarn 12 may vary significantly depending upon
the thicknesses of individual filaments 1, the number of filaments
1, and the specific material selected for filaments 1, for example.
In general, weight is measured by the unit "tex" or "denier", which
are weights in grams of a certain number kilometers of yarn, as
understood by persons skilled in the art.
[0106] A variety of conventional processes may be utilized to
manufacture yarn 12 or 13. In general, a manufacturing process for
yarn 12 or 13 includes (a) extruding or otherwise forming a
plurality of filaments 1 from a thermoplastic polymer material and
(b) collecting or bundling filaments 1. Once bundled, filaments 1
may be twisted. Depending upon the specific characteristics
desired, yarn 12 or 13 may also be subjected to an air texturing
operation or other post-processing operations. Fusing processes, as
discussed below, may also be performed to form thermal bonds
between adjacent filaments 1.
[0107] Textile Constructs
[0108] As an example, a knitted textile 10 includes at least one
pair of filaments 12, 13 that forms a plurality of intermeshed
loops. More particularly, sections of the filaments form various
loops that extend through and are intermeshed with other loops to
define a variety of courses and wales. As depicted in FIG. 1, for
example, the courses are horizontal rows of loops formed from the
paired filaments, and the wales are vertical columns of loops
formed from the filaments. In knitted textile constructs, the
filaments are manipulated through a knitting process, which may
involve a knitting machine, to form and intermesh the loops,
thereby defining the various courses and wales. Although a
relatively simple plaited knit structure is depicted, numerous
plaited and non-plaited warp knit and weft knit structures may be
formed through flat knitting, wide tube circular knitting, narrow
tube circular knit jacquard, single knit circular knit jacquard,
double knit circular knit jacquard, double needle bar raschel, warp
knit jacquard, and tricot, for example.
[0109] Although the knitted textile depicted in the Figures is
formed as a plaited structure from paired filaments 12, 13,
multiple paired strands may be incorporated into the structure of
knitted textile 10. For example, different loops, different
courses, different portions of a single course, different wales,
and different portions of a single wale may be formed from strands
having diverse materials, colors, and properties.
[0110] As a another example of a textile, a woven textile (not
shown) may be constructed wherein warp strands extend in a first
direction and weft strands extend in a second direction that is
substantially perpendicular to the first direction Moreover, the
warp and weft strands cross each other and weave over and below
each other. The strands are manipulated through a weaving process,
which may involve a weaving machine or loom, to cross and weave
among each other at the substantially right angles. There are 3
main weave constructions that make up all woven fabrics: 1--plain,
2--twill, 3--sateen or satin. In addition to a plain weave, various
configurations of woven textile may have a twill weave, satin
weave, jacquard weave, or dobby weave, for example. As one
possibility, using a double cloth woven construction, a TPU yarn or
other fusible filament may be sandwiched in the middle of a fabric
to add performance characteristics to the material.
[0111] A woven textile is not limited to a specific set of fusible
warp and/or weft strands; one or more additional strands may be
incorporated into the structure of woven textile. For example,
different warp strands, weft strands, or portions of these strands
may be formed from various types of strands having diverse
materials, colors, or properties. Any of the woven or knitted
strands may have the configuration of most any kind of filament,
e.g., yarn, thread, cable, cord, or rope. As such, at least 50%,
55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%, 80%, 85%, 90%, 95%, or 100% by weight of a
woven or knitted construct may be a thermoplastic polymer material,
such as thermoplastic polyurethane. When strands are formed as a
filament, cable, cord, or rope, such strands may also be
substantially formed from a thermoplastic polymer material.
[0112] Thermal Fusing & Bonding
[0113] Thermal fusing and bonding is an advantage of thermoplastic
polymer materials not generally present in yarns, threads, and
textiles, for example, formed from natural materials (e.g., cotton,
silk) and thermoset polymer materials. A thermoplastic polymer
material softens or melts when heated and returns to a solid state
when cooled. In addition to permitting molding or shaping, an
element formed from a thermoplastic polymer material may also be
welded, fused, or thermal bonded to another object, item, or
element. That is, the thermoplastic polymer material may be used to
join thermoplastic elements or thermoplastic and non-thermoplastic
elements together through thermal bonding. The inventive subject
matter is directed to textile constructs made of fusible filaments.
In terms of formation of films from fusible filaments, a fusible
filament is transformed from a discrete filamentous structure into
a film wherein the discrete filamentous structure of individual
filaments is lost and the original lattice structure of the
knitted, woven or nonwoven filaments is converted into a general
film form with a substantially contiguous surface of the fused
filaments. A lattice structure in which filaments are maintained in
substantially a discrete form, i.e., one where (1) the filament
structure is still visible, although there may be transformation of
the shape or dimensions of the filaments; and (2) where there is
still a substantial lattice structure preserved, is not intended to
be considered a film formed of fused filaments, even if there is
thermoplastic bonding of filaments at crossover points.
[0114] One of the factors affecting the degree of bonding or fusing
is temperature and, optionally, pressure. As noted above, a
thermoplastic polymer material transitions from a solid state to
(a) a softened state when heated to a glass transition temperature
of the thermoplastic polymer material and (b) a generally liquid
state when heated to a melting temperature of the thermoplastic
polymer material. Thermal bonding may occur when the thermoplastic
polymer material is heated to the glass transition temperature.
Greater degrees of thermal bonding, as discussed below, may occur
at elevated temperatures approaching or exceeding the melting
temperature.
[0115] As noted earlier, unlike prior art textile constructs formed
by bonding of fusing thermoplastic filaments, the inventive subject
matter creates novel textile constructs that are unitary, hybrid
structures of a lattice formed from filaments and a film ("hybrid
lattice/film" constructs). The hybrid lattice/film constructs may
be one or more regions in a larger construct consisting of a
plurality of distinct regions. For example, a textile construct may
have one or more regions of hybrid lattice/film constructs that are
combined with one or more regions in the same and/or different
planes that consist of (1) a lattice structure (e.g., a knit or
woven textile structure); and/or (2) a non-lattice structure, e.g.,
a film of thermoplastic materials, which may or may not have been
formed from a lattice made entirely of fusible filaments that are
melted to create the film. Where a textile construct has multiple
regions, the properties of the regions may be different from the
properties of another region based on variations in material
properties, materials used, geometrical and physical arrangements
of filaments, lattice structures and film structures. Examples of
properties that may be varied through the hybrid/lattice regions
and/or other regions include permeability, stretchability, and
durability.
[0116] Permeability generally relates to ability of air, water, and
other fluids (whether gaseous or liquid) to pass through or
otherwise permeate a textile construct. Depending upon the degree
to which the fusible filaments are fused to each other, the
permeability may vary significantly. In general, the permeability
is highest in areas of a hybrid lattice/film construct where the
fused filaments are fused the least or where the fusible filaments
are made of material that allows diffusion of fluids. Conversely,
the permeability is lowest in areas of the construct where
filaments are fused the most. As such, the permeability may vary
along a spectrum depending upon the degree to which filaments are
fused to each other and/or based on material choices. Due to the
transformation of filaments to a non-filamentous state, which
effectively is a solid or low porosity polymer sheet, the hybrid
lattice/structure may be an effective barrier against penetration
of water or other substances. The barrier film 112 may be
engineered as a membrane that selectively restricts the passage of
liquid phase water, but allows the passage of vapor phase water.
And the barrier may be a full or partial wind block. Because the
lattice structure is retained on one side or adjacent layer, the
barrier layer may be combined with all the benefits of traditional
knit or woven constructions, such as comfort, insulation,
aesthetics, and durability.
[0117] There are various known industry standards known to persons
skilled in the art for evaluating textile constructs for
waterproofness or water resistance and/or breathability.
Accordingly, using the teachings herein, persons skilled in the art
are expected to be able to engineer hybrid lattice/film constructs
that meet one or more of the following standards: [0118] Low range
hydrostatic--AATCC127 (Option 2) or JIS L1092; (Method A), >2000
mm or as claimed; [0119] High range hydrostatic--ASTM D751 (Fed Std
191-A55), >25 spi; [0120] MVTR (upright)--ASTM E96B, 700
grams/meter square/24 hours minimum; [0121] MVTR (inverted)--JIS L
1099 (Method B); and [0122] Air Permeability--ASTM D737, 1.0-15.0
CFM
[0123] Durability generally relates to the ability of a textile
construct to remain intact, cohesive, or otherwise undamaged, and
may include resistances to wear, abrasion, washing, and degradation
from chemicals and light. Depending upon the degree to which
filaments in a hybrid lattice/film construct are fused to each
other, the materials used, the dimensions of the materials, and/or
the structural arrangements chosen, the durability of the textile
construct may vary significantly. The stretchability of the textile
construct may also be varied along similar lines, as persons
skilled in the art will appreciate.
[0124] As already noted, textile constructs according to the
inventive subject matter may be incorporated into a variety of
products, including various articles of apparel (e.g., shirts
pants, footwear). Taking a set of outer garments consisting of a
jacket or shell 400 and pants 500 (FIG. 7) as an example, a textile
construct may form a majority of each garment, including a torso
region and two arm regions for the jacket or shell and a waist and
leg regions for the pants. One or more textile constructs may be
selectively placed in areas where any of the aforementioned or
performance attributes may be desired. For example, in a wind and
rain jacket, the rainproof properties/performance areas may be on
the front & back & shoulders, while more breathability and
less waterproofness areas would be under the arms. Further, because
the film component is based on a knit, woven or nonwoven process,
some or all portions of a garment may be constructed using 3D
and/or seamless constructions possibly through such textile
formation techniques. This is not possible in conventional
processes where the barrier film is applied in a separate
lamination process. In the case of finished products that are
body-covering garments, gloves, headwear, or footwear, the forming
of a pre-fusion textile construct into a desired hybrid
lattice/film construct may be accomplished by either a heated three
dimensional mannequin corresponding to the body parts intended to
be covered by the textile construct.
[0125] Thermoplastic fusible filaments may be heated to glass
transition or melt temperatures by any of various known means,
including ovens, steam presses, irons, heat guns, etc. In addition
to thermal apparatuses that cause transformation of fusible
filaments into films, other apparatuses or energy sources may be
used to cause transformations into films, alone or in combination
with thermal energy. For example, mechanical presses may be used to
facilitate the formation of a film by using filaments that have wax
or clay like properties under sufficient conditions and agglomerate
and fuse under sufficient pressure. The filaments may also be
polymerizable materials that can bond together in the presence of
polymerization agent such as a chemical agent or energy source
(e.g., electromagnetic radiation in UV or IR spectrum or ultrasonic
energy). The filaments may also be of a nature that they soften and
become fusible in the presence of a particular solvent or gas.
[0126] In addition to main body portions of garments, many other
features may be formed into the knit structure, with as minimal
seams or other separate process steps. These features could include
pockets, shaping darts, buttonholes, trim effects, fully shaped
panels and other stitch constructions.
[0127] Further, the inventive subject matter provides an advanced,
eco-friendly technology because it eliminates or reduces cutting
waste, pattern making, and post-manufacturing processes.
[0128] As an additional example of the inventive subject matter, a
knitting scheme for a textile construct with a sandwiched
construction of inner and outer knit layers of non-fusible yarn,
e.g., polyester, and an intermediate layer of a fusible yarn, such
as TPU, is shown in FIGS. 8A to 9B. The intermediate layer may be
fused into a barrier layer, as with other embodiments discussed
above. The embodiment shown is intended to illustrate that the
inner fabric (backside skin facing side or technical reverse)
and/or the outer knit layer (e.g., facing away from skin) may be
formed with a plurality of portals or voids that expose the
intermediate layer. A great range of patterns or voids may be
created. A jacquard knitting process may be used to create desired
patterns in a layer adjacent the intermediate layer. FIG. 8B
illustrates the general principles of construction of the
intermediate layer and the front and backside layers, with loops
and interlocks indicated at needle positions represented by the
series of parallel line segments above and below the knit front and
back layers. (FIG. 8B shows a general construction for the
construct of FIG. 8A but it does not correspond exactly to the
construct of FIG. 8A.)
[0129] FIG. 8C illustrates two forms of interlock knit
constructions that are used in the construction of FIG. 8A or FIG.
8B. The interlocks are technically the same but illustrate
differently. The interlocking yarn may be considered a spacer yarn
between the back and face fabric layers in a double knit
construction. The spacer yarn may also be referred to as a "timber
yarn".
[0130] FIG. 8D illustrates an arrangement of tuck and knit
interlocks that may be used in the intermediate layer of the
construct of FIG. 8A. FIG. 8D shows use of a combination of the two
stitch types from 8C to join the front and back stitches together,
which will form the fused film. FIG. 8D is a simplified version of
what is shown in FIG. 8B, but in FIG. 8B the construct has the face
and the back loops added to the diagram. This all highlights that
the construct may use a combination of knit stitches (e.g., knit
and tuck) to form the fusible layer. By knitting some of the
fusible fiber yarns into the construct, there can be a more sound
construction. While the intermediate layer could be formed entirely
using tuck interlocking, spacing in knit interlocks better secures
the intermediate layer to the front and back side layers of
non-fusible fibers. The mixture of interlocks thereby allows for
good flow of the fusible material on melting to form a film based
on the loose nature of tuck interlocks, as well as good
infiltration and bonding to the adjacent layers. In the example
shown, the overall construct has 50% of each stitch type.
[0131] Looking now at FIG. 8A in more detail, a knit construct is
illustrated with a repeating 4.times.6 pattern of portals in a
backside, knit layer of non-fusible fiber, such as polyester,
exposing an intermediate layer of a fusible fiber, such as TPU. The
construct may be used in the construction of garments and apparel.
The backside technical back layer represents the side of the fabric
that faces toward and may be placed against the user's body. The
selective exposure of the intermediate layer allows for functional
and aesthetic options that are not possible with a uniform of
material covering the intermediate layer. The layer is defined by a
grid of courses and wales of knit fibers. The X's represent a node
in the grid where the fusible layer is exposed through an adjacent
knit layer. The O's represent nodes in the grid where the
non-fusible fiber does not expose the intermediate layer. FIGS.
9A-B show a knitting scheme for a double jersey, spacer knit
textile construct of FIG. 8A. The scheme is based on production in
a Jacquard knitting machine with a set up for 24 course repeats,
each represented in the series of frames or steps 1-24 shown in
those figures.
[0132] As persons skilled in the art understand, the cambox is a
piece of machinery that controls the knit machine needles for the
type of stitches required when a yarn is introduced into the
overall knit structure. They can be controlled manually or via
electronic selection. Depending on the size of the machine diameter
and number of feeders, which control exact point where the yarn
needs to be place to allow the yarn to be knit into the overall
knit structure, will determine how many feeders and corresponding
camboxes there are on a knit machine. There are various possible
knit machine gauges (needles/inch), with different machine
diameters to produce different widths of fabric. A suitable machine
for garment and apparel applications where a fine fabric is desired
may be a 28-gauge system.
[0133] As an example of a performance feature, by using a fusible
fiber that has hydrophilic properties, and exposing the fused layer
in a pattern, such as shown in FIG. 8A, moisture may move away from
a user's body surface. At the same time, the intermediate layer,
which can be less durable than an adjacent knit or woven layer, is
not fully exposed to damage or wear and is protected by the areas
where the adjacent layer is maintained. The enhancement may be
achieved via a modified backside of the construct that has a
relatively high number of portals, as in FIG. 8A, to allow the
moisture to pass through into the membrane lattice quicker via
gradient differential pressure. The intermediate layer may then
transfer the moisture through to the outer surface layer to allow
the moisture to pass completely through the whole fabric for high
breathability and comfort of the wearer.
[0134] In another application, the intermediate layer may be
exposed to create an aesthetic pattern in the inner and/or outer
surface of a garment. The pattern may be based on not only the
contouring of the front and/or backside of the garment but also on
the use of different color yarns in the pattern. In the example
shown, only the inner layer has a pattern.
[0135] A great range of patterns may be formed using voids or
portals in nodes for the courses and wales, as described above. The
patterns may be any arrangement of pixilation, using nodes as
pixels. The pixelated area may consist of anywhere from at least
1%, 5%, 10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, 40%, 50%, 55%, 60%, 65%, 70%, 75%,
or thereabout, or more of the surface of the front and/or backside
of layers adjacent an intermediate layer, as described herein.
However, depending on the nature of the intermediate layer, a
greater exposed surface area may create instability and durability
issues in the overall construct or in the area of the exposed
intermediate layer.
[0136] One possible modification for improving the waterproofness
of an embodiment where the intermediate layer is a barrier film is
to plait the back bed (technical face) dial needles with the
non-fusible, e.g., Polyester yarn, with a fusible yarn, e.g., TPU
yarn, to increase the percentage of the fusible yarn in the
structure to create a thicker film, which is more waterproof.
[0137] FIGS. 10-16 show an alternative embodiment of a non-plaited,
double jersey, spacer knit construct similar in certain general
aspects to those in FIGS. 8-9, but which have different patterns of
loops and floats and interlocks. FIG. 10A shows a double jersey,
spacer knit structure on a set of needles. (Option A.) The
technical back layer of fabric is made using a first row of needles
(e.g., dial needles) where there are alternating loops and needle
floats (Step 1). A second row of needles (e.g., cylinder needles)
also has alternating loops and floats. (Step 2.) The second row
captures loops in points below each float in needle float and has
floats where the first row has loops. The yarns used in each row
are non-fusible yarns. The alternating arrangement of loops and
floats helps create a better barrier layer and integration with the
interlocking fusible fiber. A fusible yarn is used as the
interlocking yarn, and it eventually becomes a fused layer that
preferably leaves the back and face fabrics in substantially a
discrete knit, lattice form formation of the fused layer, as with
other embodiments discussed herein. (Steps 3-4.) The technical face
is a non-fusible yarn with the same construction (Steps 5-6) as the
technical face steps 1-2. The interlocking yarn interlocks the
technical back and face, as seen in FIGS. 12A-12B. FIG. 12A shows
the loop/floats of non-fusible yarns on first and second rows of
needles. FIG. 12B shows the interlocking timber yarns of fusible
fibers on first and second rows of needles. FIG. 12C represents the
overall integrated structure of non-fusible and fusible yarns.
[0138] Although a one-to-one alternating pattern is shown in FIGS.
10A-10B, other patterns are contemplated where floats from a first
row of nee are matched with loops from a second row of needles. For
example, two, three, four or more loops could be followed by one or
more floats with corresponding matching of loops in the second row
to the floats in the first row. As a reference point, FIGS. 11A-11C
show a conventional double jersey knit construction with standard
yarns (i.e., a construction not suitable for creating a fused
layer) with no floats in either row of needles.
[0139] FIGS. 10A and 10B also show a basic repeat pattern for a
knit structure made according to steps 1-6 in Options A and B.
Option A is a 3 L construction with predominantly fusible yarn on
the technical back and face sides. Option B is has predominantly a
fusible fiber on the technical back with some striping of
non-fusible fibers. It can be used in a lightweight construct, with
the striping serving to provide a buffer against the fused layer
abrading or otherwise contacting skin or other adjacent surface.
Option B therefore very close to being a 2 L construction, except
for the striping.
[0140] In FIGS. 10A-B and 11A-C, the fabric construction is a
double jersey, weft, spacer knit.
[0141] A standard spacer knit construction has three components:
[0142] 1. Technical Back of the Fabric: A single jersey fabric,
with Option A being predominately polyester back and Option B being
predominantly a fusible yarn. [0143] 2. Timber or Separating Yarn.
The yarns in a standard construction usually are a monofilament to
force the technical face and back fabrics apart. In contrast,
according to the inventive subject matter, the timber, spacer yarn
is preferably a multifilament--it is easier and quicker to melt
many fine filaments instead of one thick filament. [0144] 3
Technical Face of the Fabric: A single jersey fabric, which is
typically solid to give a flat durable fabric surface.
[0145] All 3 components make up a single fabric, with the timber
yarn interlocking both the single jersey fabrics together i.e.,
joining the technical back and face together to form one composite
fabric.
[0146] Fabric Finishing/Processing
[0147] From a high level, according to the inventive subject
matter, the fabric that comes off the knit machine is a double
jersey (2 sets of needles) spacer knit. When heat is applied, the
fusible yarns shrink/melt and pull the technical back and technical
face fabrics together. In the process, the fusible yarn creates a
barrier film between the outer and inner fabric layers. As a
result, the spacer knit undergoing this process (heat being
applied) transforms the spacer knit into a single layer of
composite materials.
[0148] The water resistance/proofness and low and air porosity
characteristics of the fabric are gained by the non-fusible yarns
contracting, closing the open lattice nature of the technical face
and back fabrics, combined with the non-fusible yarns melting and
flowing together to form a film or barrier layer.
[0149] The knit structure may be subjected to a two-step finishing
process: [0150] 1. Scour (clean the fabric) and heat set to
stabilize the fabric and get to the right dimensional stability
[0151] 2. Calendaring (heat and pressure) to fuse the fusible yarns
and optionally apply a DWR treatment.
[0152] As indicated, in certain embodiments, the inventive subject
matter contemplates the use of a non-fusible yarn that is
shrinkable. The shrinking of the non-fusible yarn helps tighten up
the knit structure, pulling the technical back and face together,
and allowing the fusible material to flow into gaps and create a
low porosity structure. The shrinking of the non-fusible fiber
shortens their length and may bulk up the yarn, also contributing
to a low-porosity knit structure. Shrinkable yarns are well known
to persons skilled in the art. See, for example, U.S. Pat. No.
3,199,281 disclosing a shrinkable polyester and U.S. Pat. No.
7,152,390 disclosing a shrinkable nylon yarn in a multifilament
construction around a core of spandex filaments.
[0153] One exemplary shrinkable non-fusible yarn is a multifilament
yarn having a core with a shrinkable component. In particular, the
non-fusible yarn may be a textured multifilament polyester yarn
that is wrapped around a core bundle of yarns. Some or all the core
yarns may be a bi component yarn wherein one component condenses.
While not intending to be bound by any theory of operation, it is
believed that in some shrinkable yarns, the condensing or shrinking
is based on a filament component becoming helix like under heat or
stress and thereby shortening and bulking the surrounding
filaments.
[0154] As a point of reference, FIG. 13A shows a cross-section of a
representative, conventional multi-filament yarn. FIG. 13B shows a
side view of a length of such yarn. Also as a point of reference,
FIG. 14A shows a cross-section of a representative, conventional
multi-filament yarn. FIG. 14B shows a side view of a length of such
yarn.
[0155] In contrast, FIGS. 15-16 show details of a textured
multifilament polyester yarn that is wrapped around a core bundle
of yarns, which may be used as a shrinkable, non-fusible yarn in
connection with certain embodiments, disclosed herein, particularly
those of FIGS. 10A-B and 11A-C. It is expected that such
embodiments can achieve CFM ratings of around 2-3, for example.
Looking more particularly at exemplary yarns suitable for use in
the foregoing and other embodiments. FIG. 15 shows a multicomponent
yarn having at least one component that is shrinkable under a
condition such as heat or other stress. A second component is
non-shrinkable relative to the shrinkable component under set
processing conditions. The two components runs generally parallel
each other and are integrated into unitary or monolithic structure.
The different components can be made of the same class of materials
or of different classes materials. FIG. 16A shows a cross-section
of a multifilament yarn formed of a core of bi-component yarns and
surrounding textured yarns. FIG. 16B shows a side view of a length
of the yarn of FIG. 16A. Yarns that shrink at least 5% to 40%, or
thereabout, are suitable for use as a shrinkable, non-fusible yarn.
Other ranges are possible. For example, yarns that shrink at least
10%, 15%, 20%, 25%, 30%, and 35% may also be suitable, depending on
the degree of porosity or other parameters desired. Suitable
temperatures for shrinking the fiber are from 110 degrees C. to 160
degrees C. or thereabout.
[0156] The following are more particulars of suitable yarns that
may be used in the foregoing embodiments.
[0157] Yarns
[0158] Shrinkable, Non Fusible Yarn [0159] Non-fusible yarn:
Polyester 50D/48F, this yarn is made up in 2 different yarns. For
example, 30D/40F textured Polyester and core of 20D/8F bi-component
polyesters, The textured, multifilament polyester yarn is wrapped
around a core bundle of yarns. (FIGS. 16A-16B.) The core bundle of
yarns are made up of multifilament bi-component filaments, that
once heat is applied one side of the bi-component polymer will
shrink and presumably create a helix formation reducing the length
of yarn by 10-30%. Another possibility is a 30D/24F polyester yarn,
which may be used to reduce the weight of a fabric.
[0160] Fusible Yarn [0161] In the foregoing embodiments connected
with FIGS. 10A-B and 11A-C, a suitable fusible fiber is a 80D/34F
multi-filament, hydrophilic, TPU. This yarn shrinks and melts to
form a barrier.
[0162] Persons skilled in the art will recognize that many
modifications and variations are possible in the details,
materials, and arrangements of the parts and actions which have
been described and illustrated in order to explain the nature of
the inventive subject matter, and that such modifications and
variations do not depart from the spirit and scope of the teachings
and claims contained therein.
[0163] All patent and non-patent literature cited herein is hereby
incorporated by references in its entirety for all purposes.
[0164] As used herein, "and/or" means "and" or "or", as well as
"and" and "or." Moreover, any and all patent and non-patent
literature cited herein is hereby incorporated by references in its
entirety for all purposes.
[0165] The principles described above in connection with any
particular example can be combined with the principles described in
connection with any one or more of the other examples. Accordingly,
this detailed description shall not be construed in a limiting
sense, and following a review of this disclosure, those of ordinary
skill in the art will appreciate the wide variety of lending
systems and other systems that can be devised using the various
concepts described herein. Moreover, those of ordinary skill in the
art will appreciate that the exemplary embodiments disclosed herein
can be adapted to various configurations without departing from the
disclosed principles.
[0166] The previous description of the disclosed embodiments is
provided to enable any person skilled in the art to make or use the
disclosed innovations. Various modifications to those embodiments
will be readily apparent to those skilled in the art, and the
generic principles defined herein may be applied to other
embodiments without departing from the spirit or scope of this
disclosure. Thus, the claimed inventions are not intended to be
limited to the embodiments shown herein, but are to be accorded the
full scope consistent with the language of the claims, wherein
reference to an element in the singular, such as by use of the
article "a" or "an" is not intended to mean "one and only one"
unless specifically so stated, but rather "one or more".
[0167] All structural and functional equivalents to the elements of
the various embodiments described throughout the disclosure that
are known or later come to be known to those of ordinary skill in
the art are intended to be encompassed by the features described
and claimed herein. Moreover, nothing disclosed herein is intended
to be dedicated to the public regardless of whether such disclosure
is explicitly recited in the claims. No claim element is to be
construed as "a means plus function" claim under US patent law,
unless the element is expressly recited using the phrase "means
for" or "step for".
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